How to solve a problem like depleting collagen? The truth is, as we get older, we bid farewell to the collagen stores we enjoyed in our youth. “Collagen is the scaffolding that supports the skin,” explains dermatologist Emma Craythorne, founder of Klira. “It’s a protein. If you press a baby’s cheeks, the skin bounces back–that’s because of the collagen that’s present.” The less collagen we have–and it’s worth noting it degrades at a rate of around one percent a year from our mid-20s onwards–the more laxity in the skin, and the larger pores and wrinkles appear.
As always, prevention is better than cure. The more we can inhibit collagen breakdown, the better our skin will fare as we age. It will come as no surprise that the “number-one accelerator is exposure to ultraviolet radiation or UV light”, says Craythorne. There’s a reason why every dermatologist worships at the altar of broad-spectrum SPF, because as well as preventing skin cancer and hyperpigmentation, it’s essential to preserve collagen levels.
When you’ve got the art of preservation nailed, it’s time to actively pump up your collagen stores. “An easy at-home route is to use a prescription-grade retinoid,” says Craythorne. “Vitamin A acts like a hormone and passes messages to the fibroblasts in the skin’s dermis, instructing them to switch on and start making more collagen and hyaluronic acid,” she says. But if retinoids aren’t for you, then vitamin C has also been proven to support collagen synthesis.
Diet is key, too. “Your body needs vitamin C, zinc, manganese, and copper to produce collagen, so it’s important to have these in your diet,” says aesthetic doctor Sophie Shotter. As for collagen supplements: do they work? With so many different types on the market, it can be difficult to know where to start. Collagen is typically absorbed and distributed via the bloodstream, working its way to the dermis via other organs. “One there, it stimulates fibroblast proliferation, generating the production of fresh collagen,” explains Anna Lahey, founder of Vida Glow, who stresses the importance of ingesting a high-quality hydrolysed marine collagen product.
Dermatologists typically aren’t huge fans of the supplement category, because there is no strong evidence to show that collagen peptides actually make their way to the skin. Craythorne does, however, agree that they are at least a great product to try for overall skin hydration when taken regularly.
In clinic, collagen induction therapy includes treatments such as microneedling, radiofrequency, and ultrasound skin tightening, as well as laser. “Ablative lasers burn tiny holes into the skin that have to heal, a process that prompts collagen production,” explains Craythorne. Injectables also have a role to play, with some types of filler (such as Sculptra) specifically designed to stimulate collagen production. These create an immediate plumping effect (filler is made up of hyaluronic acid molecules), but also encourage the body to produce more collagen naturally.
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