David Koma’s fondness for birds and feathers has become ubiquitous in his designs. However, while still drawing inspiration from avian elements, his pre-fall collection deviated from his usual practice of dedicating his collection to a single muse. Instead, he chose to honor the high-society women of New York from the mid ’60s, whom Truman Capote famously dubbed as “The Swans.” This coterie of influential characters were strikingly beautiful and fabulously wealthy, including Lee Radziwill, Babe Paley, C.Z. Guest, and Slim Keith. As director Ryan Murphy prepares to release the second season of the anthology television series Feud on the same subject—titled Feud: Capote vs. The Swans, starring Naomi Watts and Chloë Sevigny—the designer contemplated how to reinterpret this glamorous world for the Koma girl of today.
The collection offers distinct juxtapositions, from its contrasting palette to classic, ladylike accents taking a daring, sultry turn. Take, for instance, the liquid jersey dresses adorned with delicate bows that sensually drape over the body, revealing hips and thighs. Bias-cut floor-length dresses with lace inserts and satin minidresses with an abundance of plumes are designed for the ultra-confident.
Bird-inspired details make appearances on crystal-encrusted 3D structures fashioned into crop tops and tuxedos (an homage to Marlene Dietrich, one of the designer’s constant muses). There are also hand-drawn swan wings meticulously embroidered onto tulle to create a tattoo-like effect that are elegantly positioned across the bust. Other feathery moments come in the form of single-breasted jackets bursting with voluminous plumes, while oversized shearling coats and jackets add dimension to the outerwear selection. The daytime pieces warrant a closer inspection, as well, including low-slung jeans decorated with laser-etched feather motifs, denim mini skirts, and slim-fit leather pants with matching motorcycle jackets.
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