If you think Adam Lippes’s fall 2024 images look different, you’re not wrong. The designer celebrated the 10-year anniversary of his company with a dinner for friends, family, and some notable fellow designers at the beginning of New York Fashion Week, and he’s entering his next decade with big ambitions, starting with the way he communicates about the brand. To do so, he brought on a new creative team, who made a more editorial set of photos. The pictures will do the job for which they were intended: attract people who haven’t been paying attention to this small-ish New York label and raise its profile.
For those already apprised of Lippes’s obsession with textiles, the care with which his studio creates their own prints, or the elegant lines of his tailoring, sorry to break it to you: Your fashion secret weapon won’t be a secret for long. But here’s a ray of light: “I pushed fabrics this season to the level where I really feel like I’m a fabric designer,” he said at the photo shoot for this collection. “We keep pushing the construction, too, but in a way that’s understandable. We want to make forever clothes.”
A sleeveless dress was cut in a navy double-face cashmere that was last used by Dior Couture in 1999, he said—how’s that for forever for you? Or consider the collection’s sweaters: One was in a gray cashmere brushed to resemble downy mohair and embellished with crystals, like something out of a grandmother’s treasure chest. Another was embroidered Fair Isle–style not with yarn, but with organic feathers (meaning they are found, not plucked).
The waterproof wool silk blend used for a trench as well as a double-breasted pantsuit was striking: sturdy in a way that could stand up to the elements and any challenge you may come across. Another suit was cut from a nubby black and white tweed, proper and playful in equal measure. “The collection is the same, our position is the same; I think we really built that,” he said, “but I want to twist it a little bit.” Speaking of playful, the skirts will be sold with lace and tulle underskirts, some studded with crystals that can be mixed and matched or worn solo.
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