Making its Paris Fashion Week debut, the only Africa-based brand to make the official schedule is South Africa’s Maxhosa Africa. Traveling some 6,000 miles, founder and creative director Laduma Ngxokolo was keen to make his dream of showcasing in Paris a reality—something he had his sights set on for a while now. Showcasing at the Residence of the Ambassador of South Africa to France, Ngxokolo brought a touch of traditional Xhosa textile and beadwork to the French capital.
It wasn’t a runway show or presentation—it’s a “cultural event,” he said backstage. It was a moment to not only connect with the African diaspora in Paris, but an avenue to grow the Maxhosa Africa name outside of South Africa, he explained. Models walked out to the soundtrack, or monologue, from Ngxokolo narrating South African culture, identity and fashion.
There’s often a tendency for brands to ‘mature’ their collections or attempt to mirror heavyweight luxury brands when showcasing in Paris. However, Ngxokolo was keen to do the opposite. He wanted to challenge the Western perception of African fashion and show how traditional styles can be modernized for a new generation. “I love culture. I love color. That is something I never compromise when it comes to my aesthetic,” he said, while noting that doesn’t mean Maxhosa Africa clothes are not “sexy” or intriguing. “There’s a misconception that when people speak of African fashion, sexiness is never mentioned in the same sentence,” he said, And there’s a clear push to create more sensual African clothes that are not only for those in Africa but in other international markets, too.
Key silhouettes included a men’s rainbow colored trousers and shirt set and a dress with a Zulu woman embroidered on the garment. There’s a broad range of design coming out of the continent and Ngxokolo wants to see more culture and history ingrained into the clothes: “We do not decorate our culture enough as Africans. There’s a misconception that our culture should only be worn during Black History Month or on celebration of independence or heritage days,” he said. “Our heritage should be worn on a daily basis and it should be the norm. That’s what I advocate for.”
For a number of young and emerging designers, showcasing in Paris is the ultimate goal. For African designers, it’s a rare opportunity to connect with the international market and shape the conversation around African fashion. Although Ngxokolo is gearing up to open a store in SoHo in New York next month, he said this showcase in Paris is not a one off: he plans to make this a regular occurrence. “I’ll be back, spring 2025,” he said.
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