For fall, Kozaburo Akasaka was continuing the narrative he began with his spring collection, which was inspired by the characters that inhabit his imaginary utopia. This season, which he titled “Night Fall,” was inspired by a trip to Texas, his visit to the Rothko Chapel in Houston, and the Stephen King novel Dark Tower. All those things were not directly translated into the collection, rather they added up to a certain kind of dark mood—and a great souvenir jacket with Americana motifs, including a cactus and the Statue of Liberty.
Kozaburo has a clear sense of his vision, meaning fall was another collection full of very cool, instantly desirable pieces—especially jackets. Like a kimono-type jacket with an extended shoulder and curved sleeves made from a black Japanese sashiko fabric with a special honeycomb weave specially developed by the designer. The bomber made from poly shearling and then covered in sheer nylon with an elasticized waist was without a doubt one of the highlights of the collection. Black and blue denim were paired together in a sporty pullover anorak silhouette, Western-inspired button down shirts, and two-tone jeans with Kozaburo’s signature slit on the front. He used a 100% wool bulbous knit in the honeycomb shape for a little sweater and matching cardigan in a shade of cement. An emerald green velvet suit was inspired by one of the designer’s uniquely American obsessions. “I’m really into this American folk art, velvet paintings,” he explained. “Velvet suits, for me, are also quite an American thing.” A blue washed denim jacket, elongated shirt, and jeans were hand-dyed in his studio with logwood using a traditional indigenous technique from South America. “I really like the unevenness of the hand dyeing,” he added. “It reminds me of a Rothko.”
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