For spring, Natasha Zinko transformed Soho Square, a de facto public park in the heart of central London, into a campsite adorned with tents of innumerable sizes. The Ukrainian designer’s pre-fall collection likewise has an outdoorsy theme, but with a cold-weather approach. “It’s a continuation of what we’ve done before, but everything’s a little bit softer and with cold temperatures in mind,” she said in a preview.
In the past, Zinko has enhanced silhouettes by adding padded shoulders and torsos to leather separates. This time, she delved into a trompe l’oeil technique, digitally printing body-like patterns onto hoodies, zip-up jackets, and mesh floor-length dresses. Some of these garments showcase intricate crystal embroidery that shimmers in motion. Elsewhere, camel shearling jackets also incorporate the torso motif, while the same fuzzy material was used to create coordinating hot pants, chic little handbags, and knee-high military boots equipped with pockets and stiletto heels.
Last season’s lingerie-inspired looks underwent a transformation with the use of ribbed black cotton, which was skilfully fashioned into evening-appropriate off-the-shoulder tops and cut-out midi dresses. Zinko’s affinity for denim saw her utilize remnants from previous collections, cleverly repurposing them into cargo-inspired baggy jeans, military-style jackets, and asymmetrical skirts. While it’s refreshing to see a designer consistently building on and embracing themes from their archive, one can’t help but anticipate what other surprises she may have in store. Perhaps a switch-up is on the horizon for the next IRL show, as ideas might start to feel stale.
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