Filippo Grazioli believes in lightness. “Missoni has to convey ease, sensuality, [and] a spontaneous way of dressing free of constraints that syncs up with the velocity of our lifestyle,” he said at a showroom appointment.
Pre-fall’s vibe was urban and slightly ’70s. Grazioli focused on masculine tailoring in soft, unstructured, and fluid shapes. Case in point was a pantsuit in an updated version of the fiammato pattern in dark tones of chocolate brown and black, featuring a gently oversized blazer and slouchy elasticated pants. Svelte citycoats were also introduced, proposed in malleable knitted textures with lamé yarns, or in alpaca in soft natural tones, with detachable collars for added warmth. The classi Missoni cardigan, made here with the patented Caperdoni technique in a rainbow of hues, was reworked in an oversized version that could also be worn as a minidress
Playing on contrasts, roomy proportions opposed form-fitting silhouettes, as in sinuous midi dresses that were stretchy and adaptable to the body, often worked in diagonal chevron patterns. Ultra-mini versions had a sexier, younger appeal, signaling the label’s focus on a wider range of customers; colors were toned down and delicate. “They aren’t loud, and should be approachable also by those who don’t want to feel overwhelmed by an in-your-face palette and excessive mash-up of patterns,” said Grazioli, whose approach to Missoni is gentle not flashy.
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