A Rustic 35-Year-Old Farmhouse Restaurant in Spain Is the World ‘s Best

Securing reservations at coveted restaurants around the world can be something of a competitive sport, especially when it comes to a certain kind of diner. You know the type, so sharply depicted in the dark comedy/horror film The Menu: Each elite reservation bagged is a status symbol, bragged about online or name-dropped to friends. Asador Etxebarri in the Basque Country in northern Spain is one such conquest.

A fixture on many global “best” lists, it’s notoriously difficult to get a table there, as well as to communicate with the staff — even after you send full payment in advance for the nearly $300 tasting menu. (Until I arrived at the restaurant, I wasn’t 100% sure whether I really had a reservation or had just been the victim of a scam.)

I’m usually hesitant about visiting such restaurants, jaded by their inclusion in so many superlative rankings. Due to the nature of my work as a food writer and cookbook author, as well as my deep love of food, I’ve had numerous experiences at these sorts of places. Often, they’ve left me disappointed (especially when I was paying). But while planning a milestone birthday last year, friends whose opinions I trust impressed on me that Asador Extebarri was different: a hyped-up restaurant truly worth the hype.

That’s how I found myself on a stunning drive through the Basque Country, headed for the village of Axpe. I arrived at an 18th-century stone cottage surrounded by rocky green hills, restored over 30 years ago by chef-owner Victor Arguinzoniz. He describes Etxebarri as “a very small, simple restaurant where we focus on the quality of the ingredients and where we try to explore the world of live-fire cooking.” 

This exploration lies at the core of what makes the restaurant special. Around 40% of the menu changes daily, and everything is cooked with an element of fire over wood or charcoal. The wood Arguinzoniz uses changes with the season and ingredients; on my visit in early winter, he opted for holm oak for fish and vegetables because it burns slowly and is not too strong. In stark contrast to many professional kitchens that have turned to the world of tech, Arguinzoniz has taken a turtle-esque approach to success: He moves slowly and methodically, in rhythm with nature. “I think this is the magic of working with fire because we cannot teach it,” he says. It’s a feeling and experience that one must learn, he explains, almost a way of life. 

As the meal unfolded, I was surprised by how unpretentious and relaxed it felt. With only eight tables, lunch service was intimate, akin to dining in a friend’s cozy, rustic dining room (if that friend happened to own an idyllic farmhouse overlooking the lush Basque countryside). The dishes looked simple, but the flavors were layered and complex. A dish of local mushrooms came veiled with a hint of smoke and bathed in a bright, verdant sauce. A charred steak with an impressive salt-dotted crust got a beautiful lift from an accompanying lightly dressed, crisp salad.

Everything I tried tasted both effortless and full of intention, much like the hospitality in the room. The team perfectly straddled the line between professionalism and friendliness, cultivating a comfortable and easygoing atmosphere. As manager and head sommelier Mohamed Benabdallah explained, the restaurant has a family feel because the team is small — and some of it is, indeed, family. Arguinzoniz has worked here for most of his life; his wife greets the guests. 

I later learned that about 70% of Etxebarri’s guests are regulars, returning once or twice a year. Some have been coming for 15 to 20 years. It’s an important point of pride for the restaurant and a remarkable testament to a place that opened in 1990. Although international diners have increased in recent years thanks to the restaurant’s many accolades, Etxebarri remains committed to its core values and to continuing to care for its regulars. “It’s our duty to convince them to come back,” says Benabdallah.

Despite its time in the spotlight, Etxebarri keeps the same rhythms it did 35 years ago: Arguinzoniz still begins his day at 7 a.m. by walking from his nearby home to start the fire and to make bread and buffalo cheese from scratch. When I asked him how he felt about all the global popularity and acclaim, he answered, “I’m very grateful for all who’ve visited us here and really overwhelmed. My only desire is that I can make them happy with my cuisine.”

I indeed left the restaurant happy, hopeful, and grateful that Etxebarri had managed to win over and warm the cold heart of this one restaurant cynic.

To uncover the best food and drink experiences for travelers, Food & Wine polled over 400 chefs, travel experts, food and travel writers, and wine pros from across the globe for their top culinary travel experiences. We then turned the results over to our Global Advisory Board, who ranked the top nominees in each category. For the full list of all 165 winners, visit foodandwine.com/globaltastemakers.