St. Louis has a style of barbecue that’s distinctly its own — and it’s rare to see the signature items on other menus in the U.S. Unlike other styles of barbecue that are often coated with a dry rub and then slowly smoked, St. Louis-style barbecue is grilled, then sauced. This technique is applied to distinct cuts of ribs and pork steaks.
The history of St. Louis barbecue
A lot of folks say that St. Louis barbecue started in Kansas City. But Adrian Miller, The Soul Food Scholar, says not so fast. St. Louis-style barbecue has roots that unravel further south before making their way up to the Show Me State. “Black migrants from the Deep South (Alabama and Mississippi) and west Tennessee were the ones to kickstart St. Louis’s barbecue scene independently from Kansas City. Basically, these migrants were heading north, up the Mississippi River, in search of a better life,” says Miller.
“My short list of signature items are: pork spareribs, pork steaks, snoots, and turkey ribs. ‘St. Louis-style ribs’ refer to the way spareribs are butchered to give the rack a more uniform, rectangular appearance. So, the tips, back flap, and some side meat are removed. Though not all restaurants in St. Louis serve their ribs that way. In several Black-owned barbecue joints, the ribs are less butchered,” says Miller.
And that pig preparation is what really stands out when it comes to St. Louis barbecue. Pork steaks are cut from pork butt that is grilled and served either sliced or chopped into big pieces, similar to rib tips. Then the snout is smoked until crunchy — or, if short on time, it can be fried. Miller says this is reminiscent of pork rinds but fattier.
Pappy’s Smokehouse
To sauce or not
St. Louis-style barbecue is often served with sauce on the side, rather than slathered on top. Enthusiasts will say that it’s done that way because, “on the side, there’s nothing to hide.” For this style of barbecue, it’s most often grilled then sauced, so it’s no surprise that St. Louis consumes, per capita, more barbecue sauce than any other city in the country. And while the sauces can vary, Miller says, “Ultimately, all of these options are doused in a sweet, tomato-based barbecue sauce that varies in thickness.” Blues Hog barbecue sauce is often used for a thicker consistency; but if you prefer a thinner variety, Maull’s Genuine is spiked with vinegar for a thin and tangy touch.
Gobble Stop Smokehouse
Where to taste St. Louis barbecue
If you mention St. Louis barbecue, there’s no doubt the name Pappy’s will pop up. Pappy’s Smokehouse is one of the most popular barbecue spots in the city with a slew of accolades and awards to boot. The slow-cooked meats are simmered for up to 24 hours on fruitwood and served with sauce as mostly an afterthought. Another classic is Bogart’s Smokehouse, a colorful little corner shop where the sides like deviled-egg potato salad and fire and ice pickles are as beloved as the ribs.
Sugarfire Smokehouse is turning classic barbecue on its head. Here, chef Mike Johnson, who studied with Myron Mixon and cooked under Emeril Lagasse and Charlie Trotter, is famous for his “meaty mashups” which include items like barbecued cheese curds, artichokes, and andouille sausage.
Miller says that some of his favorites include Gobble Stop Smokehouse, where the turkey options shine. “The turkey ribs and tips were well-seasoned and a nice change of pace from beef and pork.” He also recommends Roper’s Ribs. “I loved the crispy, salty and sweet contrast of the snoots slathered in barbecue sauce. The guy working the counter was very personable and made the small space very welcoming.” And St. Louis Q, is better known as “the best Q in the Lou.” Miller says, “The pork steaks were cut up into smaller pieces and doused in a sweet barbecue sauce. The meat had an old-school chargrilled, backyard barbecue vibe that I absolutely loved.”
Barbecue is so beloved that there are multiple festivals that celebrate this style of ‘cue. A few to add to your list are Pig & Whiskey at Schlafly Bottleworks and The Q in the Lou BBQ Festival in Kiener Plaza. An uber enthusiast can also join the St. Louis BBQ Society.
Not a meat eater? No problem. Barbecue joints across St. Louis are now catering to those who don’t eat animal products. Smokee Mo’s, in particular, has an entire menu dedicated to vegan barbecue.
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