Tod’s presented its fall collection at its usual location, the modernist Villa Necchi Campiglio; it was designed by the in-house studio, as Matteo Tamburini, the new creative director replacing Walter Chiapponi, will stage his first women’s collection in February.
The tableau-vivant setup had models sitting on iconic pieces of contemporary design, wrapped with ample swatches of leather, cashmere and wool—the same high-end fabrics the concise collection of upper casual outerwear was made of. This season’s focus was on the research of new textures, finishings and innovative treatments, to further elevate the quality (and surely the price) of both RTW and accessories. An intriguing introduction was Pashmy, a waterproof suede with a touch as soft as a pashmina, that was rendered into a classic round-shaped bomber.
All the materials were smooth and finely textured, conveying a luxurious yet relaxed feel. A zippered biker jacket was made in what looked like denim but was actually featherlight wool; thin leather strings were appliquéd on a wool ribbed knitted jumper; double cashmere, made via an artisanal technique, emphasized the sophistication of a straight-cut, slightly boxy camel blazer, apparently inspired by the one usually worn by the famous Italian architect Gio Ponti. Enhancing the soft touch of the materials, shapes were kept fluid and comfortable; the collection’s hero piece was the shirt jacket, functional and informal, variously crafted in the most indulgent, supple fabrics and leathers.
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