At Armarium the concept of care is a fusion of aesthetics and functionality. It can be seen in the attention to crucial details when observing the garments up close. To enter designer Giorgia Gabriele’s world, it is necessary to get closer. Armarium is born from what she wants in her own wardrobe. “Tailoring has always been the core of the project, but I had a feeling that something was missing. Now I believe I have built an evolved wardrobe, where the function of the garments is as relevant as their appearance,” she said.
Her woman—who is not necessarily a woman, considering that many pieces seem borrowed from the male wardrobe, and the designer is also working on her first men’s collection—rides a scooter in Milan, loves Lucio Fontana and Mark Rothko but is always looking for contemporary and niche artistic visions. Art, as well as architecture and design, is an influence that constantly flickers in Giorgia Gabriele’s imagination. That’s why she chose Cardi Gallery, which specializes in post-war and contemporary art, for Armarium’s first dinner event and Dimorecentrale—a multifunctional creative space born in a former industrial warehouse—for her fall collection photoshoot.
“I start my creative process from fabrics” explained Gabriele, who also embraces technology as a design tool. A field jacket in compact virgin wool was a key piece: rigorous and impeccable in execution, it made utility wear elegant. Likewise, hoodies, tracksuit pants and an anorak were also made of virgin wool, worked to evoke the structure of technical materials.
This season included the launch of shoes, for which attention had been dedicated to construction: on one pair, the plantar arch had the sole covered in the same leather as the upper with double central stitching. A ballet flat was made with the same materials as the garments—from denim to glove-like nappa—it hid a mini wedge and had bold black edging in contrast to the chicness of the ballerina bow.
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