Stockholm’s New Restaurants Are Decidedly More Global

Contrary to certain culinary stereotypes, hungry visitors to Stockholm aren’t limited to pickled weeds served with moose trotter over a bed of smoked forest moss. This dogmatic approach to local produce was the hallmark of the New Nordic philosophy that dominated the food scene in the Swedish capital in the mid-aughts. No longer. Today, a new cohort of chefs is looking outward, reaching beyond the Nordic pantry and bringing global inspiration — and a more casual approach — back to the city from travels and stints abroad.

Love brought me to Stockholm 12 years ago (from another great food city: Melbourne, Australia), and I’ve been lucky to have had a front-row seat to the evolution of its food scene since. Despite writing a cookbook in 2015 celebrating Scandinavian cuisine, many of my favorite dishes on offer in Stockholm today are decidedly non-Nordic.

Consider the pizza at restaurant 800 Grader, where chef Oskar Montano has tapped into his Italian heritage to perfect the ultimate Roman-style pizza dough with an astonishing level of hydration. His pie topped with colatura (fermented anchovy) butter, lemon, and zucchini is one of my favorites on the planet. You’ll find similar dedication to technique and quality over at Krümel, where German Polish expat Kaja Hengstenberg crafts American-style cookies with her own clever variations. Her crème brûlée cookie has become a signature, but anything she bakes is a perfect alchemy of butter, sugar, and flour.

Stockholm’s new guard of ambitious and creative restaurants also includes places like Prospero, a subterranean spot that opened in 2019 and has set the tone for the city’s thriving new dining scene ever since. Prospero counts many regulars among its diners. “One couple has been coming here once a week for years,” co-owner David Arvidsson told me. After licking the last drops of yogurt ice cream with sea buckthorn and pink peppercorn from my spoon, I could understand why. (Prospero’s draw isn’t limited to locals: The restaurant attracts many overseas visitors, who praise both its innovative approach and the quality it offers at a modest price.)

Over at Bistro Mirabelle, about half the guests are regulars. Owners Viktor Sundström and David Lilja Lundin were inspired by their time in London and Paris, where they worked in restaurants that drew on a range of traditions. They didn’t intend for Mirabelle to be strictly French, but as you settle back in one of the wicker chairs, with a plate of pâté maison, pickles, superb sourdough, and a glass of Beaujolais from the excellent wine list, the ambience is undeniably Parisian.

The locavore mentality hasn’t vanished, though — far from it. Many chefs continue to source whole animals from nearby farms, forage wild ingredients, and preserve seasonal produce for the long winter months. At Bacchanale, on the island of Södermalm, four lively young chefs change the menu so frequently that they may soon wear out their chalkboard. On a visit last summer, I devoured a flatbread with billowing edges, layered with zucchini and fresh cheese. The dish was reminiscent of a pizza bianco, with a distinct Nordic take: a topping of pickled chanterelle mushrooms and dill flowers.

“We’re inspired by our suppliers,” co-owner Jonas Helgesson told me as I dug into a salad of Swedish tomatoes with a tomato-water beurre blanc, sweet grapes, and figs. “When a new ingredient arrives, we start brainstorming, trading ideas back and forth in a creative tennis match. We tweak dishes as we go, and once they’re perfected, we move on to the next creation.”

Across town, nestled among embassies and upscale residences, the restaurant at the Ett Hem hotel takes the commitment to purveyors to another level. Chef Leo Frodell has spent over a decade sourcing ingredients from trusted producers — including animals he preorders before they’re even born. “By knowing the proteins available to us, we are able to easily plan how we construct dishes,” he says. “We can be a lot more spontaneous when we’re working with more readily available ingredients such as fruits, vegetables, and fish.” (When it comes to fish, the freshness of the mackerel that Frodell serves is remarkable, and when I tell him so, he quotes an old Swedish saying: “Mackerel should only ever be eaten for lunch; by dinner, it’s too late.”)

Frodell’s laser focus on local producers blends with a global sensibility: A meal there might end with a fig-leaf flan topped with raspberries and aged balsamic, the inherently Spanish dessert enhanced by Nordic berries and finished with Italian vinegar. Many talented chefs have passed through Ett Hem, and Frodell loves seeing former colleagues open their own restaurants. That includes Patric Kling of Triton, where he, Erik Eriksson, and Adrià Lorenzo have found a way to run a quality restaurant without sacrificing a life outside the kitchen by focusing on set menus, minimal staff, and an affordable location. The day of my visit, I marvel at a salad of fresh peas in the pod, peeled tomatoes, flower petals, and leaves so vibrant they look freshly picked, all doused in a pork jus and served with oyster cream. The dish glistens in the low summer-evening sun that only high-latitude cities like Stockholm get to enjoy.

Nearby, Duvan Pub, managed by former Ett Hem sommelier Fredrik Westlund, caters to a discerning crowd craving more than just cheap beer. Dishes like Welsh rarebit nod to England, but it’s not a gastropub per se. “We focus on quality proteins and cater to Swedish diners’ love for sauce,” says co-owner Joakim Beurling, adding, with a smile, “maybe too much sauce — it keeps us busy in the kitchen!” Austerely plated dishes — like pork steak in a pool of sauce Diane or a starter of half a Norwegian crab simply served with toast, lemon, and mayo — let the ingredients speak for themselves.

There’s a touch more luxury on display at Bord, led by Joel Aronsson, who previously worked at the critically acclaimed Fäviken in northern Sweden’s wilderness. Time in Paris inspired him to create a relaxed yet refined setting where diners can enjoy rich entrées like langoustines with Café de Paris butter as well as more modest plates like isterband, a Swedish sausage of barley and pork, or radicchio with Comté cheese and pistachios.

These are just some of the restaurants that speak to the changing tides in Stockholm — it’s a fantastic time to be a diner in the city. I can’t help but reflect on something Bacchanale’s restaurant manager Kalle Ramberg told me — that this past year, considerably more cruise ships and ferries docked here than the previous one, part of a “coolcations” trend of travelers seeking out more refreshing destinations for their vacations. But I think word is also starting to get out about the new approachability of Stockholm’s dining scene. Come to think of it, forget cool — the city is hotter than ever, and there’s never been a better reason to book a flight to — or reserve a table in — the Swedish capital.

Where to eat in Stockholm

Prospero

A trailblazer setting the tone for a new dining movement in the city, Prospero has a well-priced, progressive set menu.

Bistro Mirabelle

This French-style bistro channels a distinctly Parisian vibe and has an excellent wine list. A newfound appreciation for wine in the city has gone hand in hand with its food evolution.

800 grader

Yes, you can have excellent Roman-style pizza in the Swedish capital, and you should, at any of 800 Grader’s three locations: the slice shop on Södermalm or the sit-down venues in Vasastan and Kransen.

Krümel

Check out either of the two locations, in Östermalm or Södermalm, for the famous crème brûlée cookie. You can even order a cookie to be delivered to your hotel.

Bacchanale

A constantly evolving menu inspired by seasonal ingredients means there’s always something new to try at this lively neighborhood spot.

Triton

A homely space on Södermalm island, Triton has a playfully mismatched design aesthetic and a well-priced set menu focused on excellent seasonal ingredients.

Duvan Pub

This boutique pub on Södermalm island channels England with hearty, saucy food that retains a distinctly Swedish soul.

Bord

This intimate restaurant with its wood-fired oven is led by ex-Fäviken chef Joel Aronsson, whose immaculately presented mise en place in the open kitchen resembles a work by Caravaggio.

Where to stay in Stockholm

Ett Hem

Ett hem means “a home,” and this particular abode features exquisite contemporary Scandinavian furniture curated by the English designer Ilse Crawford. Be sure to book a table at the hotel’s restaurant. Rooms from $520

Stockholm Stadshotell

This unique, stately hotel is housed in a restored 1870s residence originally built in memory of King Oscar I. Stockholm Stadshotell opened its doors on Södermalm early this year and features two restaurants, a bar, a sauna, and a courtyard. Rooms from $342

Nofo Hotel & Wine Bar

Through a courtyard, you’ll find this cozy boutique hotel with a stellar bar and superb food. Its 109 rooms reflect Stockholm’s current global approach, with themes ranging from Brooklyn to Trastevere. Located on Södermalm, Nofo Hotel is a great home base for walks around the island. Rooms from $102

Story Hotel Riddargatan

The art-driven Story Hotel Riddargatan offers rotating art exhibitions in its public spaces. The design hotel also offers great value in a premium location downtown. Rooms from $150

Planning travel to Stockholm

Most of the restaurants mentioned are located in Vasastan, just northwest of downtown Stockholm, and on Södermalm, a large Island to the south. The summer can be quiet in Stockholm, and many business owners take vacations and escape to the countryside. Some restaurants close during this period; check websites before visiting.