Why Blaufränkisch Wine Is a Sommelier Favorite

Blaufränkisch, the Austrian red grape with a funny name, is considered one of the most underrated varieties, according to wine professionals. 

“These are seriously fun wines,” says Warren Johnson, co-owner of Saint Urban’s in Charleston, South Carolina, a petite wine bar with an ever-rotating list. “Take a Nebbiolo, a Grand Cru Beaujolais, a Northern Rhône Syrah, and a Pinot Noir, for good measure. Wrap a big, red, happy bow around it, and there you go.”

The grape has the potential to make richly racy, elegant, and refreshing wines. 

“Blaufränkisch allows for the perfect intersection of fruit, acid, spice, and floral components,” says Morgan Beck, winemaker at Johan Vineyards in Oregon, and a strong Blaufränkisch advocate. “It’s a wine I could just smell for days.”

What is Blaufränkisch?

Blaufränkisch is the parent grape of both Gamay and Rotburger (Zweigelt). The name, “blau,” or blue, is a reference to its deep, inky color. 

The first records of Blaufränkisch date back to 1862, when it appeared at a grape variety exhibition in Vienna. As its popularity grew, Blaufränkisch bloomed in New York’s Finger Lakes region (Dr. Loosen), Oregon (Johan Vineyards), and Canada’s Ontario (Rosewood), where it’s at home in the warm summers and icy winters. 

“After 14 years of working with Blaufränkisch, we feel it’s a beautiful translator of terroir,” says Beck. “We see a likeness to the sanguine and iron minerality that defines our Pinot Noir, but with more acidity, a floral and spice dimension, and a darker fruit profile.”

Given how fond many in the wine industry are for Blaufränkisch, why hasn’t it hit marquee status? Its pronunciation may be a hurdle (BLAU’-fran-kish). It also has many regional nicknames. 

“It has too many names,” says Beck. “Blaufränkisch in Austria, Lemberger in Germany (and Washington state), Kékfrankos in Hungary, Borgonja in Croatia, Frankovka in Slovakia, Gamé in Bulgaria, and Burgund Mare in Romania.”

Jahdea Gildin, sommelier at New York City’s Luthun, says that the wine might not be on consumers’ radars because “people are probably more familiar with the classic regions of France and Italy.”

For its fans, or those who are curious, however, the barrier to entry is low and accessible.  

“It can easily be overlooked on a wine list due to the difficulty of pronunciation, but it is a wonderful glass that can often be found at a very affordable price,” says Maddox.

Beck agrees, “The quality-to-price ratio is very high.”

What does Blaufränkisch taste like?

The dark grape is known for its nervy acidity and high tannins, balanced by dark black fruit. 

Johnson recommends it to guests who appreciate Gamay. “We sell, and drink, gobs of Gamay,” he says. “When a guest orders one, I ask if they’ve had Blaufränkisch. The answer is, more often than not, a ‘what?’ Once they've tasted it, the response is 99% ‘wow.’”

Gray Maddox, of Tre Luna Bar & Kitchen, puts the grape in the Pinot Noir camp. “Although this grape can be tannic, specifically when grown in a high-elevation area, it can be very well balanced and made into a refreshingly bright red wine,” he says. “It’s as though Pinot Noir and a Loire Cot [Malbec] had a baby.”

Michael Myers, beverage director and sommelier of Counter in Charlotte, North Carolina, defines Blaufränkisch as “a dance between fruit and spice, brightness, and tannin.” He acknowledges that it's not for everyone. 

“It’s for those who like to have complex wines with depth,” he says. “My usual sell is, for those who like the herbaceousness of Cabernet Franc, the aromatics of Syrah, and the fruit of Pinot Noir, [they] will love the grape.”

What are the different styles of Blaufränkisch?

“Blaufränkisch is a super-approachable grape,” says Gildin. “I feel its body structure [has the] ability to fit into a lot of different profiles, depending on who makes it.” 

The grape can produce wines that are juicy and chillable, or more unctuous and serious.

Some producers opt for more indulgent oak aging, while others lean on minimal skin contact and stainless-steel fermentations. 

“You can have delicious, zippy, red fruit-driven quaffers, and more serious examples that are extremely ageworthy,” says Beck. “Nervy, with concentrated fruit and a graceful tannin structure.”

Wine professionals and producers agree that the grape has a lot of range, and consumers should take note.

“Some Blaufränkisch can end up fresher and cleaner, while others are more textured and round,” says Gildin. “Whether you like classic wines or something more funky and natural, there’s a Blaufränkisch for you.”

What does Blaufränkisch pair with?

The range of styles and underlying acidity make Blaufränkisch a Swiss Army knife when paired with food.

Johnson likes it alongside charcuterie, “especially a cotto like salame rosso or mortadella,” he says. “You can also pair it on the lighter side with a roast chicken or duck, and heavier with braises and sausages. It's incredibly versatile.”

Myers suggests Blaufränkisch with any dishes you would pair with Cabernet Franc, Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon, or any fuller red grapes. “And I personally love a leaner cut of meat with green vegetables like asparagus,” he says.

Give the wine a slight chill before serving, about 30 minutes in the refrigerator, and drink it late into the night with friends. “Maybe you're popping over to a friend's for a barbecue, and some of the guests have real wine palates, and some don't,” says Johnson. “Put a chill on a Blaufränkisch and you're a star. I guarantee it.”

Blaufränkisch bottles to try

There are several excellent examples of Blaufränkisch on the market. These four bottles, listed alphabetically, are an excellent way to explore all that the grape has to offer.

Claus Preisinger Blaufränkisch Kalkstein ($26)

This wine, from Austrian wunderkind Claus Preisinger, is lighter than most Blaufränkisch, with just a few days of skin contact. That gives it an energetic acidity and a moody oomph of blue fruit. It tastes like night swimming after a party: wild, energetic, and earthy, with unbridled acidity.

If you’re not quite sold on Blaufränkisch, try his Kalkundkiesel, a blend of the grape and Pinot Noir.

2020 Georg Prieler DAC Blaufränkisch ($65)

“Georg Prieler does a phenomenal job of creating a wine of sophistication and excellence,” says Maddox. “His wines have been well sought after for the last 50 years and [are] a solid example of how special they can be.” Aged in oak for 20 months, it's vibrant and driven by ruby fruit.

2021 Johan Vineyards Blaufränkisch ($45)

An American wine with an Austrian edge, this Oregon-born Blaufränkisch is mineral and sanguine, with dark fruit and a moody acidity.

Wachter-Wiesler Eisenberg Bela Joska Blaufränkisch ($22)

Aged in large barrels with a kiss of whole-cluster berries, rising star Christoph Wachter’s Blaufränkisch is packed with fragrant violets, black fruit, and a hint of dark spice to balance out ebullient fruit notes.