Vetera Matera Hotel in Matera, Italy

Filmmakers have long been enamored with the UNESCO World Heritage-listed limestone tufa cave houses of Matera, which have made the southern Italian hilltop town a magnet for culture and history buffs. But it wasn’t always this way.

In 1952, the Italian government ordered the evacuation of 20,000 residents from these hollowed-out underground abodes, inhabited continuously for over 2,000 years, due to unsanitary living conditions. They were relocated to modern apartment buildings in the surrounding suburbs. Matera was branded “la vergogna nazionale,” or “the shame of the nation.”

In the '50s and ‘60s, renowned Italian directors flocked here to shoot dramas such as Pier Paolo Pasolini’s 1964 biblical epic “The Gospel According to St. Matthew.” Then, in 2004, Mel Gibson’s highly controversial “The Passion of the Christ” introduced Matera to an international audience. More recently, Matera’s tangle of alleyways and stone-built stairways served as the backdrop for Daniel Craig's portrayal of James Bond in “No Time to Die.”

However, the town, situated in the Basilicata region, bordering Puglia, Calabria, and Campania, had already been drawing visitors since Matera earned UNESCO status in 1993. Its two districts, known as the Sassi, together with the Park of the Rupestrian Churches, constitute houses, churches, and monasteries built into the natural caves of the Murgia. In 2019, Matera rose to prominence as one of two European Capitals of Culture (alongside another ancient city, Plovdiv, Bulgaria).

Visiting in May, I was among the first to stay at Vetera Matera. An Italian dentist had gradually acquired a series of neighboring buildings, including cave houses, in Matera over the years, with the dream of creating a hotel. When he formed a partnership with the Russo-Attanasio family, who are behind Italian hospitality company Bellevue Group, his vision began to take shape. Eight years of thoughtful restoration later, Vetera Matera is one of the few hotels to have joined the rarefied ranks of Relais & Châteaux before opening. It’s the only five-star luxury albergo diffuso, or diffused hotel—a term used to describe hotels spread across multiple historic buildings—affiliated with the global, culture-focused not-for-profit association.

Named after the neighborhood, or rione, in which it’s located, Vetera Matera comprises 23 rooms, including eight suites. I initially booked an upper-floor Noble suite, assuming my photographer husband would prefer all-hours access to views of Matera’s cornsilk-hued rock dwellings. In the end, I selected a Hypogeal suite. I wanted the full experience of sleeping in a cave dwelling, like the inhabitants of Matera have done since the Paleolithic era.

Entering the cool, soothing subterranean master suite, I quickly realized why Vetera Matera’s accommodations are so unique. Master Suite 5, as it’s simply known, is set on three softly-lit, cream-hued levels, each one gradually descending deeper underground. While I can be slightly claustrophobic, high ceilings alleviated any concerns. A fellow guest told me she opted for a Noble suite because she didn’t feel comfortable with the thought of staying in a cave room. Wondering who might have once resided here, I found our temporary abode mysterious, beguiling, and incredibly romantic.

Here's what it's like to stay at Vetera Matera.

The Rooms

Entering our 1,044 square-foot Hypogeal (which means “underground” in Greek) suite, it was hard to fathom that, for centuries, people lived in these caves. Even more impressive is that, according to hotelier Adda Attanasio, daughter of Elsa Russo, minimal intervention was needed to convert it into a hotel room.

Limestone brick arches alternate with smooth tuff walls, some pockmarked, while others are chiseled with geometric shapes. On the first level of our suite was a sofa bed and a bathroom. A few steps lead down to an open-plan bedroom with a king-size bed, a sprawling bathroom with twin vanities, and an amply sized closet. Enhancing the vibe were two clay female busts, one with sea sponge for hair, crafted by artist Paolo Sandulli and set in two gently illuminated alcoves. On the third and final level, there was a hot tub and a daybed. “There, a bell-shaped niche etched into the wall by previous inhabitants marked where excavation could continue into the earth, while maintaining a steady stream of light into the home,” Attanasio, who has invested enormous effort to bring this project to fruition, tells Travel + Leisure.

In a separate building, Noble suites on upper floors offer views of Matera through breezy windows, some with vaulted ceilings and terraces. Interiors are inspired by contemporary Italian style, featuring timber, iron, and travertine crafted by local artisans. Bathroom design varies from stone to monochrome marble tiles.

Food and Drink

Executive chef Eduardo Estatico, whose grandmothers sparked a passion for cooking his native Neapolitan cuisine when he was just eight years old, takes great pride in showcasing the raw materials from Basilicata and Puglia.

All meals are served in the underground dining room, Artema. Breakfast delights include focaccia Barese, while Matera’s famed sourdough bread pairs well with Lucanian black pig salami, stracciatella cheese from Murgia, and buffalo ricotta.

For lunch, I sampled handmade orecchiette with turnip greens sautéed with garlic, chilli, anchovies, and E.U.-classified PGI (Protected Geographical Indication) Senise peppers, a delightful blend of flavors and textures. My Roman husband, a talented home cook, approved of the spaghetti with four tomato varieties and fresh basil. Rum-soaked baba with vanilla cream and black cherries proved a boozy way to end a meal.

Tasting menus for dinner change frequently and follow the seasons. Expect delicate, delicious starters, such as a savory eclair with red prawns from Porto Santo Spirito, spring onion panna cotta, and Beluga caviar with smoked sabayon and tarragon. Vesuvian peas dominate a surprisingly rich dish featuring Pastificio 28 Pasta from Campania’s Gragnano, 24-month aged Caciocavallo Podolico cheese from Puglia, Lucanian black pork jowl, and pink grapefruit. Estatico loves to work with seafood, turning out dishes such as rockfish soup with sweet and sour spring ciaudedda (regional vegetable stew) and seaweed and Matera bread cubes. (But he’s also adept at vegetarian fare.)

There is an indoor bar, while an al fresco wine and cocktail bar is scheduled to open this summer on an elevated terrace. At sunset, when Matera is cast in a mesmerizing golden glow, the views are sublime.

Activities and Experiences

General manager Marco Cagnetta is very selective about the experiences offered to guests. “I prefer to handpick guides, rather than rely on agencies, for private tours,” he says. Cagnetta arranged for Di Modugno, whom I found instantly engaging, to introduce us to the Sassi of Matera, namely the districts of Caveoso and Barisano. We pored over frescoes in the ninth-century Santa Lucia alle Malve church, dating to the settlement of Benedictine monks in Matera. Passing by a sign pleading “Siate gentili con i Sassi” (Be gentle with the Sassi), I wondered how busy these stone-paved streets must be in the thick of summer.

Tour guide Vincenzo Di Modugno led us into a cave house filled with original furniture, terracotta vases, and agricultural tools, recreating the humble life the Materani once lived, even sharing space with livestock. Entrance was free, but a donation to keep these cultural treasures alive is welcome. At Studio d’Arte, we chatted with artist Christian Andrisani as he crafted a vibrant cucù whistle from clay, an ancient good-luck charm and symbol of prosperity.

One afternoon, Vetera Matera’s deputy manager, Desirèe Rappazzo, showed us around her native Altamura, a nearby Puglian town buzzing with locals and few travelers, at least in May. There, we visited Antica Tipografia Portoghese, one of Italy’s oldest printing presses still in operation, dating to 1891. At Caseificio Dicecca, we met cheesemaker Vito Dicecca and sampled Amore Primitivo, a berry-topped blue cheese that was pure ambrosia.

The Spa

Retreating to the subterrestrial Elysium Spa, I couldn’t quite believe we had it all to ourselves. Hewn from rock, this is a spa set in an actual cave and one of the finest I’ve experienced. In the calidarium, a generously-sized hot tub, powerful hydromassage jets pummeled away at weary muscles. Moving from there to a steam room and sauna, then onto the frigidarium, I barely dipped a toe in the cold plunge pool. I adored the essential oil-infused rain showers that alternated between tropical scents and refreshing menthol. I then tested the Zerobody system, floating on a soft bed filled with warm water while following a meditation via headphones.

Afterwards, I brewed some Florentine herbal tea and spent time reveling in my newfound relaxed state, lounging on day beds at the outdoor relaxation area, looking out over Matera.

There are also massage rooms, including one for couples. Signature body treatments include the Vetera Ritual, which entails a foot bath, hydrating body pack, facial massage with a blend of essential oils, a face mask, and scalp massage.

Family-friendly Offerings

Vetera Matera feels especially suited for couples, but the hotel welcomes families, offering sizable suites, connecting rooms, a children’s menu, and early dinner. Babysitting services are available at an additional cost.

Accessibility and Sustainability

While the landscapes of Matera pose considerable accessibility challenges, the hotel has two rooms for guests with disabilities and a wheelchair ramp.

Vetera Matera observes Relais & Châteaux’s sustainability requirements, notably a commitment to preserving local cultural heritage and architecture. Most of the staff members I spoke to were from Matera or surrounding towns.

The hotel subscribes to the tenets of the global Slow Food movement, founded in Rome. Seasonal products for the restaurant and bar are sourced from small-scale artisan producers, including cheesemakers and vintners, in the wider region.

Bathrooms are stocked with Vetera Matera-branded refillable bitter almond-scented organic body wash, hand wash, and body lotion, produced by a Milan-based company. At the spa, Essentia Puglia, a Puglia-based organic beauty product line enriched with extra virgin olive oil and grapes, takes pride of place.

Location

Situated in Matera’s Sasso Barisano district, the hotel is 39 miles, or about a 50-minute drive depending on traffic, southwest of Bari International Airport (BRI) in Bari, Italy. The hotel can arrange transfers for guests. Nearby, you'll find Murgia National Park, which has a network of trails that pass by caves and churches carved out of rock. Excursions and activities in northern Basilicata can be arranged, such as white truffle hunting and focaccia baking in a wood-fired oven in the forest. Coastal Polignano a Mare is just over an hour’s drive east. Rent a car to explore independently.

Book Now

The hotel is a member of Relais & Châteaux, which has a Guest Recognition Programme. Mention your Relais & Châteaux Guest Number at the time of booking and upon arrival at the hotel to receive personalized service and exclusive benefits.

Nightly rates at Vetera Matera start at 300 Euros ($345 USD) for a classic room.

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