This Cutting-edge Expedition Ship Takes Travelers to Antarctica in Cool Scandinavian Style

To be honest, Antarctica was never on my must-visit list. I don’t hold anything against the continent, of course, but it always seemed to me that Antarctica’s a place for rough-and-ready types: people more interested in the frigid outdoors than the creature comforts on board. Trudging through knee-deep snow to spot seals or enduring biting winds while hoping to see a humpback? I figured that was somebody else’s ideal adventure, not mine.

How wrong I was.

On a recent trip to Antarctica aboard Viking Polaris, I not only discovered the multidimensional allure of the ice — but I also realized that you don’t have to sacrifice amenities for adventure.

That’s thanks in large part to Polaris, which was launched in 2022. One of two identical expedition ships from Viking, this 378-passenger vessel has much in common with the nine ocean and 90 river ships of the brand that’s a favorite of Travel + Leisure readers. Aboard this newly constructed expedition ship, the décor is an elegant interpretation of modern Scandinavian style and there are no inside cabins, a particularly important consideration for trips on the sometimes rocky Drake Passage.

As is the case on all Viking ships, some shore excursions and meals in specialty restaurants are included in the fare, as are wine and beer with meals. Viking’s signature emphasis on onboard enrichment is demonstrated through partnerships with the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration and the Cornell Lab of Ornithology, among others, who help with programming on Polaris.

But as plush as the ship may be, it can’t compete with the surroundings. In spite of my skepticism — I’ve always considered myself a warm-weather cruiser — Antarctica’s dreamy, otherworldly landscape was a revelation. Penguins, whales, and towering icebergs were tantalizingly close, seemingly just a sliding glass door away.

The ship’s expedition team worked like a well-oiled machine, ensuring that guests understood the protocols for behavior ashore and abided by the International Association of Antarctica Tour Operators (IAATO) regulations to ensure the protection of wildlife and the environment.

With its capacity of 378 passengers, Polaris is one of the largest ships operating in the Southern Ocean that’s allowed to take guests ashore. Because no more than 100 people are allowed at a given landing site at a time, trips to the ice for us were fewer in number — and shorter overall — than they can be on smaller vessels.

If maximizing your time on terra firma is a priority, Polaris might not be the best choice for you. If, on the other hand, you like your shoreside adventures with a touch of luxury back on board, this ship might be just right. It certainly changed my mind.

Read on for more about Viking Polaris, the ship’s many amenities, the feel of the onboard experience, and details on the vessel’s Antarctic itineraries.

Staterooms and Suites

Polaris has half a dozen stateroom categories. At the top end, the 1,200-square-foot owner’s suite on deck 6 has its own dining room, living room, butler’s pantry, and outdoor lounge with a hot tub. Entry-level Nordic Balcony suites clock in at 215 square feet, with a floor-to-ceiling window — known on Viking as a Nordic Balcony — that partially retracts to let fresh air in. Depending on the category you book, you may get priority boarding on embarkation day and access to your stateroom from as early as 11 a.m.

There are no inside cabins on Polaris — you’re here for the views, after all — and staterooms of all categories are comfortable and elegantly furnished in Viking’s signature Scandinavian style: think muted tones of beige, blue, white, and gray, with blond woods and wool accents. All suites have generous closet space, and a heated drying closet to store outdoor clothing and footwear — another key consideration on polar cruises.

I was particularly impressed by the heated bathroom floor, roomy walk-in shower (never a given on expedition ships), and capacious bathroom drawers in my Deluxe Nordic Balcony stateroom, one step up from the entry level category. (I would’ve liked a volume control for the in-cabin speaker, over which announcements were often made.)

All cabins have a mini fridge that’s restocked as needed with soft drinks and snacks at no charge, a Nespresso coffee maker, two pairs of binoculars, and a small library of books. Bedside and deskside outlets have both 110- and 220-volt sockets and USB ports. Every guest receives a Viking-branded Helly Hansen jacket and lightweight puffer, ordered online pre-cruise, and passengers are loaned waterproof pants and rubber boots that are essential for landings.

Bars and Restaurants

Viking doesn’t charge for dining in its specialty restaurants, and depending on your stateroom cabin category, you can make as many as four guaranteed reservations at both premium restaurants up to 100 days in advance. Manfredi’s is an elegant Italian trattoria (the bistecca Fiorentina is a standout) and at the Restaurant, expect a menu of typical formal dining staples, such as New York strip, beef tenderloin, and poached salmon. Beyond the allotted reservations, guests can dine at either restaurant as many times as they like, provided there’s availability. (Room service is also complimentary — and guests on my sailing were raving about the southern-fried chicken.)

Elsewhere on board, World Café is the all-day buffet, with live cooking stations and open kitchens. Of note are two stations within the Café: one has raw seafood and sushi, with an ever-evolving lineup of rolls and nigiri, while the other is a pick-your-cut grill with a selection of aged steaks, pork chops, and burgers.

Aquavit Terrace is another dining venue, overlooking the swimming pools, with seating to accommodate overspill from the buffet. Its light-filled Aquavit bar — look up to admire the dog sled suspended from the ceiling — is a good spot for pre-dinner cocktails and ocean views.

Mamsen’s is a small restaurant serving Norwegian cuisine for breakfast, lunch, and afternoon tea. The grab-and-go venue offers a smörgåsbord of open-face sandwiches, traditional split pea soup, desserts, and made-to-order heart-shaped Norwegian waffles that were, for me at least, irresistible. 

Across the ship, passengers with food restrictions are welcome to request appropriate substitutions.

Several bars play to the convivial spirit of most Antarctica-bound passengers. Most popular is the one in the Living Room, where everyone gathers to read, join group activities, and enthusiastically compare notes on the day’s landings. Second in popularity is the Hide, an intimate lounge secreted on Deck 1. By day, it’s a quiet spot for reading or undisturbed post-lunch naps. In the evenings it takes on a speakeasy vibe, the bartender serving from a tightly edited selection of premium spirits with the cozy mood set by a water-vapor fireplace. At the front of the ship, Pap’s bar in the Explorer Lounge is a good place for cocktails with a view; the Viking Bar outside Manfredi’s and the Restaurant is handy for aperitifs.

Where Viking Polaris Sails

From October through March, the Antarctic summer, Polaris cruises to the White Continent from Ushuaia, Argentina. Viking’s 13-day Antarctic Explorer itineraries begin with an overnight in Buenos Aires then a flight to Ushuaia for embarkation. After a two-day crossing of the Drake Passage, passengers spend the next seven days exploring Antarctica before returning to Ushuaia.

In March, after a final Antarctic cruise, Polaris heads north, following the coast of South America, transiting the Panama Canal, and stopping in cities such as New York and Toronto. The ship typically reaches the Great Lakes in May, where it spends the Northern Hemisphere summer until it turns south once again.

Shore Excursions

As is the case on all Viking ships, there’s at least one complimentary shore excursion every day, weather permitting. On my journey aboard Polaris, we typically got to choose from two: a Zodiac ride to a landing site — or a tour of the surrounding seas if landing wasn’t possible — or a 45-minute jaunt on what Viking calls its special operations boats, each with a dozen comfortable seats. To control capacity on land, both options must be booked in advance. (In Antarctica, unpredictable wind speeds and ever-changing sea conditions mean that no landing can ever be guaranteed, so expect adjustments along the way: midway through my sailing, the captain had already revised landing locations four times.)

Still, there were several opportunities to set foot on the seventh continent. I was blown away by the sight — and, honestly, the overwhelming stench — of the Gentoo penguin colony at Damoy Point. Depending on the time of year, other penguin species will be around, as will fur and Weddell seals. On one excursion, I caught an awe-inspiring glimpse of a humpback’s forked tail, as it arced briefly above the surface of Fournier Bay.

During one trip on the special operations boat, whizzing through the Melchior Islands, I found myself unexpectedly impressed by the massive and majestic icebergs. Guests can also get on the water by signing up for guided tours by two-person kayaks; Polaris carries nine of them.

The only activity with an extra cost is a 30-minute dive on one of two submersibles aboard. The $500 trip, with as many as five other passengers, takes the adventurous few as far as 500 feet below the surface, looking for animals including penguins and the rare phantom jellyfish. The 11-ton, egg-yolk yellow subs are, it’s worth mentioning, named Ringo and George; the expedition ship Viking Octantis carries twin subs named John and Paul.

Amenities and Entertainment

The best entertainment on Polaris is what’s going on outside the ship, and the onboard enrichment program is focused on wildlife, history, topography, and oceanography. On my sailing, there were lots of talks about the animals we’d see and very detailed briefings, held in the Aula theater, about our landing sites. The team of expedition guides on my cruise included an ornithologist, cetacean specialist, naturalist, and an ecotoxicologist. These scientists encouraged guest participation in their real-world research, whether it was collecting water samples to gauge the presence of microplastics or remotely shooting underwater video footage to measure the abundance and diversity of the region’s sea life.

Polaris and its sibling ship Octantis are the only commercial cruise vessels authorized to release weather balloons into the atmosphere. Once per departure, guests can watch a launch; data from the sensors on the balloons is used by meteorologists to inform weather forecasts all over the world.

Besides all the expedition and science activities, entertainment options are somewhat limited: expect to find low-key things like art classes, nautical knot demonstrations, and movie and documentary screenings. In the evenings, a classical or contemporary musical duo would play in the Explorer Lounge and the Living Room, where loveseats and chaises draped in reindeer hides are arranged around water-vapor fireplaces. When they weren’t out on the ice, my fellow passengers occupied themselves with books, board games, and moments of solitude. I enjoyed walking the ship and taking in the many paintings and photographs centered around the theme of Antarctic exploration, which are detailed in an audio tour available through Viking’s mobile app.

Spa lovers, like me, should enjoy the ship’s deck 2 sanctuary; I found it a heavenly haven after spending hours ashore. The wellness area is filled with traditional Nordic hot-and-cold therapies, including things such as a jetted pool, stone thermal beds, a “snow grotto” of constantly falling shaved ice, an ice-bucket shower, and a sauna. There’s also a badestamp, or hot tub, with a window permanently open to the ocean, for sightseeing while you soak.

Polaris also has an impressively large fitness center, one side equipped with cardio machines, the other a spacious wood-floored studio for yoga, meditation, or weights. (I was able to seamlessly stream Peloton workouts on my phone in the gym, thanks to the ship’s strong Wi-Fi.) The ship also has a hair salon and, on deck 3, a small boutique with sundries — and much-coveted Viking Antarctica jacket patches that my fellow passengers had to have.

Family-Friendly Offerings

This isn’t a ship for kids: all Viking cruises, including those on the Viking Polaris, are adults-only, with a minimum age of 18.

Accessibility

Two Nordic Junior Suites on Deck 4 comply with ADA regulations. That said, Viking requires all passengers headed to Antarctica to present a doctor’s attestation that they are healthy enough to travel on such an expedition, with no pre-existing conditions that could require the sort of advanced medical attention that’s unavailable in this remote corner of the world. Because all Antarctica landings are “wet,” with cruisers climbing from the ship to an inflatable tender then onto shore in water up to the calves, some people with limited mobility may not find these trips to be practical, in spite of the accommodations on board.