Virginie Viard, a Chanel stalwart, is saying adieu to the company she first joined, briefly, 37 years ago. Back then, her focus was on embroidery; when she returned to the house Coco Chanel built and Karl Lagerfeld renovated and expanded, Viard’s responsibilities had expanded. Known as the German-born designer’s right arm, Viard moved from his side and into the spotlight as his chosen successor, making her solo debut for resort 2020. She didn’t take down any walls, but she did pull back the curtains, so to speak. Her Chanel was a little bit more relaxed, and more inclusive in terms of size diversity. Under Viard’s direction, Chanel presented its first (and the first for any Western luxury brand) show in Sub-Saharan Africa, for pre-fall 2023. That collection was especially rich in elaborate embroideries, a skill dear to the designer. French street chic, fantasy, sports, and seaside glamour are some of the themes Viard explored while at Chanel—and, in turn, were documented in the pages of Vogue.
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