Stealth wealth. Mob wives-chic. Rich mom energy. These are already some of the buzzwords of 2024 being used to describe anything remotely luxurious in feel—be it a big faux fur coat or a chunky cashmere sweater. But for his refined fall assortment, designer Sergio Hudson skipped the gimmicky catchphrases and focused on a wearable collection of separates, coats, and suits that were meant to feel expensive—just not trendy. “I really wanted to beef up the ready-to-wear, and make it more luxurious,” he said.
If Hudson’s new lineup were to have a TikTok-approved label, however, it would be some sort of term like “Rich Bitch”—clothes for powerful women who invest in sharp pieces and don’t feel timid about rocking them. There was a sense of power and confidence in his sleek cuts this season. A pinstriped, double-breasted jumpsuit could command any boardroom; ditto his long-sleeved camel dress with a pleated hemline, punctuated with a big leather waist corset. The clothes were classic, but had a subtle fierceness to them. Take the denim trench coat with a built-in leather bralette, which struck the right notes of day and night.
Hudson’s more evening-ready looks, meanwhile, nodded to Studio 54 and the 1970s—a recurring motif for this designer. His golden long-sleeved gown, with a high slit and keyhole cutout, called back to the glamorous style icons of the era like Bianca Jagger. But even his more demure pieces, like a simple brown ruched jersey dress, clung to all the right places. Hudson said that brown felt fresh for him this fall—even for his party wear. “In the ’70s, you’d watch Charlie’s Angels and Wonder Woman, and the women wore all of these shades of brown,” he said. “I was excited by that.”
Hudson’s suiting, however, was the real star of the show tonight (it almost always is). There were sharp houndstooth blazers; cream cashmere double-breasted coats with swishy hemlines; navy velvet two-piece suits; and a cinched leather jacket with a leather skirt to match, both in cherry red. Hudson said it best for who he envisions commanding a room in all of these executive looks: “I love a bossed up woman, and what’s better than a woman in a suit?” Actor Danai Gurira in Hudson’s tangerine two-piece in the front row was concrete proof of that.