Nearly a month after Phoebe Philo unveiled her long-awaited collection—which included an idiosyncratic mix of expertly tailored pleated pants and statement pieces that carried with them a certain kind of emotion, like a wholesome gold necklace spelling out MUM or a funky pair of allover-fringe trousers that simply begged for a dance floor—a new drop has arrived. Consisting of 40 new styles as well as a second delivery of continued pieces, the new offering doubles down on Philo’s vision for the future, one that completely eschews seasons and emphasizes a luxury that may be quiet but could never be mistaken for subtle.
There’s certainly nothing tame about a golden bikini, with a wrap-style top and a studded high-waist, full-coverage bottom, which is the singular swimsuit offering in the collection. It’s undeniably sexy and will likely be flattering on a wide variety of bodies. A bomber jacket in what’s called laurel leather, a dark and rich mossy green shade, is paired with a matching opulent shearling scarf, which the model has dramatically tied around her neck (the better to see the sumptuous so-called brandy shaved shearling underneath). A pair of sunglasses begs the question: ski goggles or regular sun protection? As if the answer really matters.
If the shoes in the first drop seemed a little conservative, less-than-minimal thong leather so-called Naked sandals in blood red feature a rectangular flap on the back of the heels, as if shielding the eyes from the nude feet that await on the other side. For the longtime Philo fans, an Easter egg awaits in the form of a pair of polka-dot pony pumps. Their oblong-square toe box and high vamp made their debut during the first drop in leather, but this version in tan with oddly shaped black polka dots and black piping recalls a polka-dot print from one of her old Céline resort collections.
Philo is not one to look to indulge in nostalgia, so this coincidence is likely a testimony to her preference for things being a little off. A perfect round polka dot is boring; a weird shape is exciting, in motion. For the campaign, they seem to have been photographed by a model looking down at her own feet, her long legs and the bottom of her black underwear anchoring the frame. It’s the kind of shot that’s been sent countless times to best friends and group chats when a cherished pair of shoes (or a garment) arrives home after being purchased online. It’s off the cuff and serves as a shorthand for “I love this!” Philo knows her audience well.
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