This article originally appeared on Vogue Business.
As it turns out, the internet-breaking Maison Margiela Artisanal show in January was John Galliano’s swansong at the house. The designer is leaving after 10 years, he announced in a heartfelt post on Instagram.
For now, Galliano is tight lipped on his next move. “The rumors…Everyone wants to know and everyone wants to dream. When the time is right, all will be revealed,” the designer wrote. “For now I take this time to express my immense gratitude. I continue to atone and will never stop dreaming.”
Galliano was appointed creative director at Maison Margiela in 2014, his first posting since his scandalous exit from Dior in 2011. (His redemption journey was charted in the documentary High and Low: John Galliano, released in March this year on Amazon Prime). Since then, he’s taken the cult label, beloved of art and fashion insiders under incredibly private founder Martin Margiela, to new heights.
Galliano’s cultural impact and technical and inventive Margiela creations have had a halo effect on the brand as a whole, Margiela parent company OTB’s founder and chairman Renzo Rosso told Vogue Business in a recent interview. OTB took full ownership of the brand in 2006. Founder Margiela retired in 2009, and the label was run by an anonymous team (one that for a time included Bottega Veneta creative director Matthieu Blazy) until Galliano’s appointment.
OTB doesn’t break out revenues, but Margiela sales grew 23 per cent in 2023, even before the January show. Similarly, sales grew 24 per cent in the 2021-2022 period. An example of Galliano’s impact is that the Tabi, the iconic Margiela shoe originally launched in 1988, has become ubiquitous on the streets of Paris, London, New York and other major fashion capitals in recent years since he’s boosted brand awareness. The shoe even became the subject of a viral story on TikTok, in which a New York man stole a pair after a date, which was covered by Vogue, Dazed and The New York Times. There are 26.5 million posts that mention “Tinder tabi thief” on the platform.
Widely revered as one of fashion’s most talented couturiers, Galliano creates a world and a story behind his clothes. He famously briefs his models on the entire backstory of their look, from Kate Moss as a runaway princess (John Galliano SS94) to Gwendoline Christie as a sultry doll in the most recent Margiela couture show (spring 2024).
