I’ve Lived in Texas for 34 Years, and This Remote Beach Town Is the Most Peaceful Place in the State

About two hours southwest of Houston lies Matagorda Bay, a small beach town for travelers seeking solitude and a break from everyday life. Unlike other beach towns in Texas, Matagorda Bay is sleepy. You won’t find crowds, buzzing bars, and traffic here; instead, you’ll encounter wide-open stretches of sand, tiny mom-and-pop eateries, and not a whole lot going on except fishing, shelling, birding, kayaking, and a few other outdoor pursuits.

It’s where I go to unplug and where, during those transitional moments in life, I go to reflect and rest. And during those cold, dark winter months, it’s a glimmer of much-needed warmth and sunlight.

Matagorda Bay sits where the Colorado River spews into the Gulf. This brackish water teems with wildlife — particularly sought-after fish such as redfish, black drum, and flounder. You might see a dolphin zip by in the river, or a Kemp’s ridley sea turtle feeding near the jetties.

Matagorda’s marshes are a haven for birds, too, which flock to the area year-round, but especially during winter migration. More than 300 species have been spotted here, and Matagorda has been number one on the North American Audubon Christmas Bird Count since 1997.

“It’s such a special place partly because of its unique geographic features, including the Colorado River, the Gulf of Mexico, and the wetlands — each of which has its own ecological diversity,” says Danielle Wolfe, a program coordinator with LCRA Parks.

Throughout the marshes and along sandy beaches, visitors will see pelicans wading around piers with their gular pouches full of fish, ospreys, warblers, terns, herons, egrets, black-necked stilts, and roseate spoonbills, which are a vibrant bubblegum-pink color, due to their shrimp diet. “My favorite is the belted kingfisher,” says Wolfe. “They can fly up to 36 mph, make their nest by digging burrows in the banks next to a body of water, and have a third eyelid that allows them to see underwater.”

When you’re ready to hit the water, head out onto the Colorado River near the jetties, where you can row alongside empty beaches and park your kayak in the sand for a bit of land exploration. All of the Texas coastline is considered public land, from the water to the dune line. After leaving your kayak on a sandy bank, walk down the jetties toward the Gulf, where you’ll find a wide-open beach full of seashells. Lightning whelks (our official state seashell), shark eye moon snails, and murexes are just a few of the shells found here. On a recent trip, I had the beach to myself, with thousands of shells lying in the sand in front of me, waiting to be admired.

Texas beaches and some areas near Matagorda Bay Nature Park are open to the public for free, but the park also gives visitors daily access to their 1,334 acres of protected land. More than 900 acres of the park’s protected wetlands can be accessed through a locked gate, only for visitors going birding, kayaking, hiking, and more. The park also offers guided walks and birding tours, and visitors can purchase day passes to spend time in the wetland area. Guided kayak tours are available through their Paddle and Stroll program, and equipment is available to rent through Matagorda Bay Nature Park.

Where to Stay

You can stay at Matagorda Bay Nature Park, where 10 new bungalows were built in 2023 right along the Colorado River. Accommodations include full kitchens and bathrooms, comfy living spaces, a gas grill, and private decks for watching the sunset. There are also four Airsteam campers, campsites, and 54 RV sites.

Where to Eat

Cassady’s is the local coffee shop and breakfast and lunch spot where I go for a brief break back into society and to check emails. Their coffee is great, and the Mata-Getdown Gorda is their signature drink: coffee with creamy caramel and dark chocolate. The menu is lengthy, but I love a stuffed flattie (a breakfast quesadilla with bacon, egg, hash browns, and cheese) for breakfast, and one of the specialty sandwiches for lunch.

Snapper’s is a tented restaurant and small bar with some of the best local fried shrimp in the area, which comes straight from local shrimpers. Waterfront Restaurant is right on the marina, with down-home comfort fare and seafood like stuffed flounder and chicken fried steak. Coastal Que is typically open from Memorial Day to several weeks after Labor Day, and serves Texas barbecue classics such as brisket, ribs, pork belly, sausage, and smoked chicken. And don’t forget Stanley’s General Store, the local gas station with breakfast tacos, pigs in a blanket, burgers, fried chicken, shrimp and oyster po’boys, and more.