International Women’s Day: 7 Chefs on the Women Who Shaped Their Culinary Voices

The world of hospitality is being forced into flux. In the UK, a recent letter from 70 women chefs called upon the restaurant industry to recognize both the rampant and more insidious forms of sexism within its midst. Sally Abé of The Pem, Tiella’s Dara Klein, and Poppy O’Toole led the list of women “exhausted by an industry so systematically flawed that we struggle to see ourselves within it.” The image of kitchens have long been marred by egos, sexism, and aggression, making little space for people often shut out to break through and craft their own culinary voices.

While the letter is one appendage of change, there are communities and figures across the world making the pan-cultural kitchen a more diverse, inclusive, and joyful space. This International Women’s Day is a moment among many to celebrate: From a mom’s late night acts of love with a warm and comforting home cooked quick meal, to the friend at the pass you can rely on, authentic recipes shared between generations of women, or the head chef who showed the way when things heated up fast.

We have Paris Rosina: a London-based chef, creative, former dinner lady, and former Dusty Knuckle head chef; Paris’ travelling Afro-vegan chef Glory Kabe; Tokyo-based cook Millie Tsukagoshi Lagares, whose forthcoming debut cookbook Umai is a resplendent, nourishing journey through Japanese cuisine; beloved London restaurant Cafe Deco’s head chef Anna Tobias who steers its fresh, innovative, seasonal approach; Rahel Stephanie, the chef behind Indonesian supper club Spoons; New York-based chef, stylist and culinary artist Thu Buser who celebrates and reimagines Viet cuisine; and Savannah Hagendijk, head chef at Amsterdam’s Michelin-starred Restaurant de Kas, currently cooking up a storm over the grills at Soho’s Firebird.

Below, these seven chefs and cooks share the stories of the women who shaped them, beyond International Women’s Day.

Paris Rosina

“I come from a working class family, where we didn’t eat anything extravagant growing up. I grew up watching Nigella, Fanny, and Delia and I was obsessed with The Two Fat Ladies from a young age. I am so lucky to have such strong women around me. Rebecca Oliver of Dusty Knuckle really gave me some much needed nurturing during my career there. I am not sure where I would be without her. Melek Erdel is my dear friend, and the first person outside of my kitchen team I connected with in food. Holly Chaves, Marie Mitchell, Rosie French, Panayiota Soutis, Caitlin Isola, Holly Cochrane.