I Spent My Honeymoon at This Remote Patagonian Resort — Here’s What It Was Like

After a winding five-hour drive from Argentina’s El Calafate International Airport, my husband and I finally crossed into the otherworldly Chilean Patagonia on our journey to the Río Serrano Hotel + Spa.

While many couples dream of island getaways, we wanted to experience an adventure together and embark on a romantic honeymoon to the end of the Earth. Nestled next to the river that shares its name, Río Serrano is located outside the southern entrance to Torres del Paine National Park. In 2002, the family-owned property opened as a 24-room inn and has since expanded into a 108-room boutique hotel with a spa.

From the moment you enter through the communal, open reception, you are met with floor-to-ceiling views of the famous Paine Massif Mountain range. This lodge-like lobby is home to plush couches, abundant seating, multiple fireplaces, and locally sourced artwork and textiles, reflecting the area’s rich cultural heritage.

“Our goal was to create harmony between the interior spaces and the stunning landscapes outside, ensuring guests feel connected to the environment. We collaborated closely with local builders and artisans, which supported the community and ensured the design was sensitive to the landscape and climate,” said Katherine Rahal, the interior designer behind Río Serrano’s most recent renovation.

For our first beverage upon arrival, we had to taste the signature Calafate Sour, Patagonia’s take on a Pisco Sour. Indigenous to southern Argentina and southern Chile, the calafate berry is symbolic in the Patagonia region; legend has it that whoever eats the berry is destined to return to Patagonia.

Each day brought a new excursion, and as a lifelong equestrian, one of my trip highlights was horseback riding. The Río Serrano stable is a short walk from the hotel, where we met the property’s herd of criollos, the native horse breed known for their stamina and sturdiness, and our baqueano (Chilean cowboy), while we were fitted with helmets and half chaps. Over two-and-a-half hours, we rode from the Serrano village amid the dense Magellanic forest and across swift streams as our trail took us alongside the Serrano River to see where it meets with the Grey River.

One afternoon, after we returned from a tour of the Grey Glacier, relaxing in the brisk mountain air with a Hugo Spritz in hand on the outside terrace, we saw the Río Serrano culinary team firing up the outdoor grill in preparation for a traditional Patagonian asado. The lamb, procured from a sustainable farmer in El Calafate, was grilled and slow-roasted over the fire. Served with freshly prepared salsas and bread, the decadent shredded lamb melted in my mouth. The Río Serrano horses, newly released from the stables, struck a picturesque scene as they roamed the pastures behind the hotel during the barbecue.

Post-dinner, as the sun set over the mountain range, my husband and I sat next to a crackling fire in the lounge, conversing with other guests about the wildlife and natural beauty we encountered that day, from guanacos, a South American member of the camel family, to the Andean condor, the largest bird of prey in the world, with some fortunate enough to spot the elusive puma, a signature predator of the area’s ecosystem.

If you’re ready to experience the wild and romance of Patagonia for yourself, continue reading my full review of Río Serrano Hotel + Spa. 

The Rooms

On several nights, I fell asleep with the windows open as the gusty, crisp Patagonian air blew through our second-floor Superior room. The beautiful views extend to the rooms and are ever-changing, given the cloud coverage and time of day.

The beds are comfortable and functional, and each room is accented with Huitru’s colorful woven textile bed runners. There are three different room types: Standard, Superior, and Superior Plus. Whichever you choose, each has amenities such as organic bath products from Damana, a hair dryer, and a minibar.

Food and Drink

At Qawasqar, Chilean chef Walter Leal uses native ingredients like Chilean rhubarb, lucuma fruit, and Centella (Chilean king crabs) to educate travelers about the diverse ecosphere around them, which ranges from mountains and glaciers to forests and lakes. The result is a dinner menu featuring dishes like roasted guanaco loin served with polenta and mushrooms and freshly caught Austral hake with tri-color quinoa.

The hotel pairs Chilean wines with each dish: a fruity sauvignon blanc from Chile’s Casablanca Valley, a velvety carménère from the Colchagua Valley, and red blends from the Millahue Valley. For late-night drinks, there’s De Agostini, a bar offering signature cocktails made with local spirits like Pisco Waqar and dishes like homemade pizzas and a Chilean corn puree seasoned with merkén, a traditional smoked chili pepper.

During our full-day tour of the diverse Torres del Paine park via van, and while on the prowl for a puma sighting, we stopped for lunch next to the rushing Cascada Paine on the Paine River. Next to the mighty waterfall, our elevated picnic consisted of a spread of meats, cheeses, shortbread cookies with dulce de leche, and Patagonian beers by Austral Cerveza, the southernmost brewery in the world. Depending on your planned excursions and all-inclusive package, the kitchen can coordinate off-site lunches.

Activities and Experiences

The Massif, the on-site excursion provider, has a skilled staff ready to guide guests through every outdoor experience Patagonia offers, from glacier tours to world-class hiking.

While I’m not much of a hiker, my husband and I found ourselves on the four-hour Mirador Condor viewpoint hike due to a canceled boat excursion (dependent on the changing water levels). Reaching the beautiful viewpoint requires a steep and rocky incline climb. Once on the trail, our guide quickly realized we needed extra attention and guidance on how to use hiking poles, which he generously offered us.

Although quite the challenge, after pushing through the steep terrain and a thunderous wind tunnel that had us crouching for stability, our unplanned honeymoon hike is a memory we’ll cherish forever, made possible by our guide’s instruction, leading us far out of our comfort zone.

Guests are welcome to book as many or as few excursions during their stay. To relax and recover, the property boasts a heated indoor pool with hydrotherapy jets, a sauna, and a spa with a fitness center. The water in the pool originates from the glacially fed Serrano River as part of the property’s water recycling program.

The Spa

The candle-lit hallway of the Spa at Río Serrano is one of the few spaces on the property with no open windows or vistas. Intentionally designed to welcome visitors with a tranquil, meditative low-light, the entrance is referred to as ‘K’olaf,’ a Kawésqar word that translates to “canoe,” and the path one takes from their canoe to their home. Symbolizing the deep connection that the Kawésqar people have with the sea and their natural environment, the spa encourages everyone who enters to reflect upon their relationship with nature. This extends to the walls of the spa and pool area, which are crafted from repurposed wood from a salvaged bridge in the area.

The treatments pay homage to the area’s Indigenous people, the Kawésqar and Aonikenk, who coated and painted their bodies to protect them from the elements. The Río Serrano massage uses locally sourced clay extracted from the Serrano riverbed to exfoliate and detoxify the skin before a deep massage. To revitalize sore muscles before or after hiking, they offer a Patagonian Energy massage focusing on boosting oxygen to the muscles and a lymphatic drainage massage to improve circulation and reduce fluid retention and toxins.

Family-friendly Offerings

Río Serrano welcomes families and doesn’t have an age limit for guests. Cribs are available upon request, and the Qawasqar restaurant has a children’s menu offering pasta, chicken fingers and fries, and other kid-friendly staples.

The guest relations team can arrange childcare services for parents who would like to book an excursion that is not available to children, such as the popular but strenuous Base Towers hike. Children’s games, painting, and other activities are available upon request.

Accessibility and Sustainability

One room is fully wheelchair accessible, and the pool area has a designated entrance for wheelchair users or those with mobility concerns.

In addition to using locally sourced food and ingredients, the property has developed a water recycling program, reusing water from the Serrano River and recycling all glass, boxes, and bottles. The hotel’s design uses eco-friendly materials and energy-efficient systems to ensure a minimal environmental footprint.

Location

Although it is closed during the harsh Patagonia winters, Río Serrano is open from September to May, with exact opening and closing dates based on the season. The nearest airport, Puerto Natales, is 47 miles away, about a two-hour drive from Río Serrano, and airport transfers are available. I flew into Argentina’s El Calafate airport, which is between a four- and six-hour drive, and had seamless transfers to and from the property.

How to Get the Most Value Out of Your Stay

Río Serrano offers three different program options for guests: bed and breakfast only, full board, and all-inclusive. To maximize your value and experience, book the all-inclusive option. There are no other restaurants or stores nearby.