Emilia Wickstead Pre-Fall 2024 Collection
For Emilia Wickstead, designing a collection always starts with the woman; the muse. And for pre-fall, her roving eye turned to Bridget Riley, the British Op art pioneer known for her dazzling canvases lavished with intricate geometric patterns. The point of inspiration was woven through the collection first in a very literal senseāa standout dress was cut from a black-and-white chevron weave that had a hallucinatory shimmer, and featured wiggly seams across the bust that recalled a kind of oversized ric rac; while a butter yellow strapless silk dress had been subtly imprinted with triangular patterns that were amplified by the precise pleats across the bodice. āItās a tribute to Bridget Riley, but done in a modern way,ā Wickstead noted.
In keeping with that spirit, the designer took her cues not just from Rileyās artworks, but also the artistās laid-back personal style. Photographs of Riley herself, in her ever-rotating uniform of suiting, sweaters, and cardigans were nestled between her paintings and shots of flowers by Irving Penn sat next to each other on Wickstead’s moodboard this season. (Especially charming were the denim pieces, which were also woven through with a subtle chevron pattern and nodded to artistsā workwear.) āShe really embodied this sense of creativity and strength and purpose in the way she dressed,ā Wickstead added. To bring that spirit of strength and creativity to life, Wickstead worked with the actor Michelle Dockeryāthe pair first met after the former designed the latterās wedding dress last yearāto create a lookbook that was deliberately pared back to let Dockeryās presence shine. āTo me, Michelle is an artist in her own rightāsheās best known for being an actress, of course, but sheās also trained as a dancer,ā Wickstead added. āSheās a true performer.ā
For all of the clever nods to Rileyās role within the pantheon of British art history, there were still plenty of the pieces Wickstead is best known for within the collection: vibrant gowns decorated with eye-catching florals, most notably a delightful, painterly dahlia print that ran the gamut from delicate pastel hues to zesty shades of yellow and green. With the bottom falling out of the e-commerce market, itās a tough time for many London brands right nowābut as a designer who launched her brand in the aftermath of the 2008 financial crisis, Wickstead knows how to steer her ship with a steady hand. And her ability to move the needle forward just the right amount each season is as brilliant as any of her floral prints.
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