Ahead of his debut Dunhill show in London, Simon Holloway hosted Vogue Runway at a preview amid a frenzy of fittings. Despite the tense atmosphere at the brand’s Mayfair HQ, his pristine showroom was organized to a level of meticulousness that only a seasoned designer, along with a world class team behind him, could achieve during a gut-wrenchingly busy period. His ability to scrupulously delineate each garment rivaled the precision of his rails, leaving no detail overlooked. It felt like a lesson in menswear 101.
Days later, the salon-inspired show unfolded at the National Portrait Gallery, transforming it into an elegant, cozy setting reminiscent of a chic Paris café, complete with curated table scapes, an array of canapés, champagne, and gin martinis. This lavish spread was a welcome indulgence after a series of back-to-back shows. As a swarm of handsome models emerged, the collection emanated a decidedly classic feel. This setting aptly matched the preppy mood that permeated the garments that felt quintessentially Dunhill. But with a closer look, a majority of pieces were lightweight, and the purposefully mismatched details within the prints and textures felt more modern than was first apparent.
There were suits upon suits: two-piece cashmere wool sets here, fabulously cut Donegal tweed three-piece concoctions there. Reinventing the car coat, a nod to house founder Alfred Dunhill’s heritage, the outerwear range varied from camel hair with leather accents to premium double-faced wool. Sound artist Mimi Xu, responsible for the show tracks, revealed the inspiration behind the music: “It’s about repurposing classicism with the current. I aimed to echo the new Dunhill DNA.”
When asked about his intentions in translating Dunhill’s 130-year legacy to a contemporary London audience, Holloway’s response was assured: “There are menswear enthusiasts here, some of whom, particularly older generations, may know Dunhill from the past. But I do think there’s a younger audience obsessed with tailoring and proper menswear haberdashery—it’s a lovely thing to be able to connect with them here, too.” Is it all uphill for Dunhill? Let’s see what else Holloway has up his sleeve.
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