A scan of By Malene Birger’s resort lookbook suggests that all is business as usual at the label, but that’s not quite so; as brand director Barbara Gullstein said on a call, we should think of resort 2026 as a “transitional season.” This is because Emilie Martinsen-Kønigsfeldt, the newly appointed creative director who also owns the brand, is settling in. In the lead up to this transition, Martinsen-Kønigsfeldt spent about a year working side-by-side with Maja Dixdotter, the previous creative director, who had created a strong but minimal bohemian aesthetic for BMB.
Martinsen-Kønigsfeldt’s use of double-face fabrics, fringe, and hide, along with her palette, continue in this vein. What’s changed, explained Gullstein, is the framing of the work. The idea is that the nomad has returned from travels away. “There has been a need of adapting the collection and making it a bit more wearable for that global woman who works and lives a real life,” Gullstein said, and it’s “these practical elements that play into how Emilie has approached this collection.”
The way the lookbook is photographed and styled—still images in a white room with a lone piece of furniture—is suggestive of a sense of interiority and perhaps of stocktaking. If a burgundy leather suit is pure business, a dreamy pale pink cable-knit sweater and skirt set is most definitely hyggelig, i.e. cozy.
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