A First Look at the Fashions in Sotheby’s and the CFDA’s “Defining American Style” Auction

Thinking big is the American way, and Sotheby’s has taken that approach in organizing Visions of America, a multi-part, multi-media event that includes live and online sales. The auction house tapped designer Thom Browne as its curatorial partner, and he applied his avid collector’s eye to the lots on offer, selecting some of his favorites. One of these is a portrait of George Washington, inspired, perhaps, by the recent purchase of a house in upstate New York in which the United States’s first president once ate. In his capacity as the CFDA chairman, Browne also worked with Sotheby’s to include fashion in the mix via an online sale, CFDA: Defining American Style. This is a first for the CFDA and for Sotheby’s Americana week.

The auction includes work by 37 brands and CFDA members, which have been donated by the designers themselves. Vogue’s Anna Wintour and author/collector Amy Fine Collins have also contributed pieces to the sale, and the lots represent American fashion from the 1970s to the present day. “We wanted to make sure to cover a range of American fashion, not just the contemporary or not just the movie or celebrity; we wanted to represent different designers, both current and past,” said Cynthia Houlton, SVP, Global Head of fashion and accessories, a relatively new department.

A good number of garments appeared on the red carpet, whether at the CFDA Awards or the Met Gala. Browne contributed the unicorn ensemble Erykah Badu chose for the 2017 Soul Train Awards and Christian Siriano a red pouf dress Jennifer Lopez wore when accepting her 2020 People’s Choice prize. In auction terms, these pieces have “provenance,” a history of ownership, or in this case, a history of wearing, that resonates with collectors, and more generally with this era of celebrity fascination. Awards and events, notes Houlton, are “part of fashion culture.…When you think of those moments that people really remember, those are often the periods where people really have an association with the piece.” Adds CFDA CEO Steven Kolb, “the auctioned pieces are iconic, not only in their range and craftsmanship but also in the unique stories they tell, making them genuinely collectible.”

Houlton believes that the pieces in CFDA: Defining American Style are not likely to be bought to be worn, but of course that’s up to the winning bidder. Breaking with convention, no reserves (the price below which an item will not be sold) have been set. “We did not want to say ‘This piece is worth more than another piece,’ ” Houlton explains. “We want the market to determine the value.” That, too, is the American way. As is generosity: All proceeds will benefit the CFDA Foundation, which offers scholarships and mentoring to the next generation of American designers.

Alice + Olivia

Paris Hilton / Alice + Olivia neon Carnival Bash dress signed by Paris Hilton, 2021.

Photo: Courtesy of Sotheby’s

Altuzarra

Anna Sui

Bill Blass

Floral pantsuit, circa 1994

Photo: Courtesy of Sotheby’s

Bob Mackie

Gown worn by Lauren Hutton in Revlon Ultima II ad from the resort 1982 collection.

Photo: Courtesy of Sotheby’s

Bode

Calvin Klein by Zach Carr

Long white gown and black evening coat.

Photo: Courtesy of Sotheby’s

Carly Cushnie

H.E.R. at Variety’s Hitmakers Brunch, 2022.

Photo: Christopher Polk / Variety via Getty Images

Carolina Herrera

Black and white silk polka dot dress, 2014

Photo: Courtesy of Sotheby’s

Christian Siriano

Diane von Furstenberg

Donna Karan

Geoffrey Beene

Long-sleeve babydoll dress, 1995

Photo: Courtesy of Sotheby’s

Halston

Gray two-piece Ultrasuede skirtsuit from the fall 1973 |Halston Boutique collection.

Photo: Courtesy of Sotheby’s

Isaac Mizrahi

James Galanos

Black floral print dress

Photo: Courtesy of Sotheby’s

Jason Wu

Custom gown worn by Liu Wen for the Vogue China collections cover, 2013.

Photo: Courtesy of Sotheby’s

Khaite

Mary McFadden

Mary McFadden “Marii” pleated gown from the 1984 Medici Collection

Photo: Courtesy of Sotheby’s

Michael Kors Collection

Norma Kamali

Liberty Dress custom made for “The Embellishment of the Statue of Liberty” exhibition at Barneys New York, 30 June 30 through 1 August 1986, benefiting the Cooper-Hewitt Museum.

Photo: Courtesy of Sotheby’s

Oscar de la Renta

Patrick Kelly

Stretch velvet animal print dress, 1989

Photo: Courtesy of Sotheby’s

Pauline Trigère

Red wool cape, 1970s

Photo: Courtesy of Sotheby’s

Proenza Schouler

Kim Kardashian in custom Proenza Schouler at the 2015 CFDA Fashion Awards.

Photo: Dimitrios Kambouris / Getty Images

Public School

Shoes, 2015

Photo: Courtesy of Sotheby’s

Ralph Lauren

Jessica Chastain’s green dress from the 2022 movie The 355, which she produced and acted in.

Photo: Courtesy of Sotheby’s

Ralph Rucci

Black tulle jaclet with chestnut cashmere “Vibrations,” fall 2007

Photo: Courtesy of Sotheby’s

Rick Owens

Rick Owens, fall 2023 ready-to-wear

Photo: Daniele Oberrauch / Gorunway.com

Stephen Burrows

Pink silk fringe top, c. 1970

Photo: Courtesy of Sotheby’s

Thom Browne

Tom Ford

Tommy Hilfiger

Tory Burch

Zac Posen

Zero + Maria Cornejo

Photo: Jeff Vespa / WireImage

3.1 Phillip Lim