Food & Drink

How France’s Two Wine Titans Truly Compare


Bordeaux and Burgundy are known for producing complex, age-worthy wines. Beyond the cellar, France’s two most well-known wine regions couldn’t be more different. In addition to using different grape varieties, these two regions are characterized by distinctly different terroirs, resulting in wines with varying structures, flavor profiles, and food pairing capabilities.

Quick differences between Bordeaux and Burgundy wines

Bordeaux

  • Mostly blended grapes – predominantly Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cabernet Franc

  • Soils are gravelly and clay-rich

  • Relatively flat terrain with a maritime climate

  • Red wines are more full-bodied, dark fruited and tannic

  • White wines known for their zesty acidity and consumed in their youth

Burgundy

  • Best known for monovarietal wines made from Chardonnay and Pinot Noir

  • Soils range from Kimmeridgian to lime-stone rich

  • Cooler, more continental climate

  • Red wines are red fruited and acid-driven

  • White wines range from citrusy and mineral-driven to creamy and full-bodied, and are likely to age

The key differences between Bordeaux and Burgundy

While Burgundy is best known for its monovarietal wines made from Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, Bordeaux bottlings are almost always blended, specifically from Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot, and/or Malbec for reds, and Sauvignon Blanc, Sémillon, and/or Muscadelle for whites. 

“Bordeaux is all about the blend, while Burgundy is more about the expression of a place,” says Dorian González Vega, beverage director at New York City’s Union Square Cafe. Burgundy is a place, she says, where a vineyard just 100 meters away from another can produce a completely different wine. “Much of this idea traces back to the monks, specifically, the Benedictines and Cistercians, who mapped out and studied these vineyards as far back as the Middle Ages,” she says. The monks are also credited with laying the groundwork for Burgundy’s modern classification systems. 

Dorian González Vega, beverage director, Union Square Cafe, New York City

“Bordeaux is all about the blend, while Burgundy is more about the expression of a place.”

— Dorian González Vega, beverage director, Union Square Cafe, New York City

The terroir, soil, and climate conditions of Burgundy and Bordeaux are also quite different. 

While Bordeaux’s soils tend to be more gravelly in the Left Bank and clay-rich in the Right Bank, Burgundy’s soils range from Kimmeridgian in the north, where Chablis is produced, to more limestone-rich soils in the south. Bordeaux is relatively flat and has a maritime climate due to the Atlantic Ocean and nearby river system influences, says González Vega. While most of Burgundy’s region is characterized by a cooler, more continental climate, with many vineyards planted on gently sloped hills.

Red wine: Taste differences between Bordeaux and Burgundy

The flavor profile of the wines from Bordeaux and Burgundy is also strikingly different. 

“In general, Bordeaux wines are more full-bodied, dark fruited and tannic, while those from Burgundy are more red fruited and acid-driven,” says Kenneth Crum, sommelier at Heroes in New York City. 

González Vega reiterates this and says red Bordeaux wines tend to be bold and powerful, and those from Burgundy are more delicate and earthy. “Bordeaux reds, especially when young, come out swinging,” she says. “[They’re] bold, structured, and unapologetically tannic.” 

Notes of blackcurrant, graphite, cedar, tobacco, and green bell pepper can be found in Cabernet Sauvignon blends from the Left Bank, and silky notes of plum, black cherry, and chocolate emerge from Merlot-dominant expressions from the region’s Right Bank. 

“Burgundy, by contrast, plays a more subtle, poetic tune, especially with Pinot Noir, where transparency to terroir is everything,” says González Vega. Notes of cherry, raspberry, rose petal, mushroom, and spice are commonly found in these wines.

White wine: Taste differences between Bordeaux and Burgundy

For white wines, Bordeaux Blancs are known for their zesty acidity, along with signature notes of citrus and green apple. While expressions from top estates can age, most Bordeaux Blanc is consumed in its youth. 

Conversely, the Chardonnay-based whites of Burgundy are more likely to age. The flavor profiles of White Burgundy span the gamut, ranging from citrusy, mineral-driven expressions in Chablis to creamy, full-bodied wines from the Côte de Beaune and southerly Côte Chalonnaise / Mâconnais areas. 

Bordeaux also has a rich tradition of producing sweet wines, mostly centered around Sauternes, while Burgundy’s wines are almost always dry. 

Food pairing differences

The differences between the wines of Bordeaux and Burgundy extend to the foods often associated with them. González Vega generally pairs the bold, structured reds of Bordeaux with savory meat dishes, such as steak, roast lamb, or beef Wellington. For the reds of Burgundy, she often turns to salmon, roast duck, or pork tenderloin, and says that mushroom-based risottos and stews are ideal pairings for Pinot Noir. 

González Vega prefers dry white Bordeaux blends with fresh cheeses and seafood, and often reaches for White Burgundy when buttery lobster, creamy pastas, or an herb-roasted chicken is on the menu. Most importantly, she notes, wine pairings are all about balance, regardless of the region from which the bottle hails. 

Beyond terroir and taste, another major difference between Bordeaux and Burgundy are their classification systems. 

“Burgundy wines are classified based on their location; Bonnes Mares will always be Grand Cru, no matter who’s making it,” says Crum. 

Bordeaux classifications, however, are based on the producer. For example, Château Latour will always be a First Growth, regardless of where in Bordeaux the grapes come from. González Vega says that both systems are rooted in tradition, just with a different focus and approach. 

What do Bordeaux and Burgundy have in common?

So what do wines from France’s two “Big Bs” have in common? According to Crum, they’re both made well and tend to cost a pretty penny, though versatility is ultimately the thread that ties both regions together. “Both regions have a variety of producers with different styles,” he says. “Some might want to focus on making wines that you can drink now, while others prioritize ageability over everything else.” 

Despite their differences, Bordeaux and Burgundy share a deep cultural reverence.

“Bordeaux and Burgundy have inspired generations of winemakers globally, and serve as benchmarks for excellence in red and white winemaking,” says González Vega. “It almost seems unfair to compare the two, but I understand why we do.”


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