Food & Drink

Taste Tahitian Cuisine in the Capital of French Polynesia


From glamorous, overwater bungalows to coral reefs thriving with fish, French Polynesia offers unique wonders across its five archipelagos in a nautical area the size of Western Europe. Yet you don’t have to go far to experience the country’s diverse dishes. Out of 118 islands and atolls, few boast a culinary scene as vibrant as that of Tahiti.

In the capital of Papeete, food reflects the islands’ Tahitian heritage, as well as the influence of the French administration and Chinese people who were brought to work on coffee and sugar plantations in the 1860s. Whether you’re eating at a fine dining restaurant, shopping at the local market, or grabbing a bite at roulottes (food trucks that originally catered to laborers at their work sites), there are plenty of ways to dig into the island’s cuisine.

Explore Papeete’s historic market

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For a crash course in Tahiti’s contemporary food culture, book a tour of Papeete’s Municipal Market, established in 1847. “It was the first place where farmers and fishermen could display what they had to sell from all the different districts,” says Heimata Hall, chef and founder of Tahiti Food Tours. “This is where commerce and the melting pot of food started.” 

Be sure to come hungry; along the way you’ll sample a slew of treats that highlight Tahiti’s culinary influences, from saucy chow mein sandwiches to firi firi, a type of doughnut infused with coconut milk. Your guide will also provide you with a better understanding of Papeete’s layered history and — because you definitely haven’t eaten enough yet — stop at “snacks” or quick service restaurants such as Lucky Luke, known for its creamy poisson cru.

Shop for gourmet souvenirs

Whether you’re a cook or just want to bring a taste of Polynesia back home, La Cave de Tahiti is the place to shop. Skip the imported French wines and pâtés in favor of the extraordinary local goods section, packed with gems from around the islands like pineapple wine, Manutea Rum, and Poumaka chocolate made from cacao grown in the Marquesas. Don’t leave without trying La Fromagère de Tahiti, made by the brilliant Juliet Lamy, who fuses French cheese varieties like Tomme with regional flavors, including passionfruit and Marquesas pink berries.

Experience fine Polynesian dining

Not every fine dining restaurant in Papeete serves foie gras and escargot. Tahiti has a culinary culture all its own that’s evolved greatly in recent years, thanks to a new generation of creative Polynesian chefs. Among the first to lead the movement was Teao Maiarii of Maru Maru who’s known for inventive, nostalgia-tinged dishes like gnocchi made from breadfruit, one of Tahiti’s most beloved ingredients. “I will never forget my first time eating there,” says Hall. “It was as if I was diving back into my childhood.” Hall also suggests Le Kozy and Nui Bistro where you’ll find clever spins on mountain plantain, freshwater prawns, taro root, and more.

Learn to cook Tahitian delicacies 

Photography by Vaikehu Shan / Studio Marama, courtesy of Nani Travels


The best way to wake up on a Sunday in Papeete: Breakfast with Tereva Galopin, the chef behind one of Tahiti’s top tables, Restaurant Le Sully. Start at dawn in the Municipal Market where you’ll shop for fresh ingredients, like fish straight from the Tuamotus and pua'a roti, a sweetened roast pork that’s part of a typical Sunday feast, to take back to Galopin’s kitchen. Just don’t be surprised when you’re offered a glass of wine at 7 a.m. 

For a deeper look at more traditional Polynesian cooking, book a visit to the village of Hitia’a (a 45-minute drive away from Papeete) where you’ll eat a lunch personally hunted and harvested by your guide Hervé Maraetaata. “The class is about more than just preparing food — it’s about rediscovering an ancient way of life where food wasn’t just about eating but about community, labor, and respect for the land,” says Alexandrine Wan, founder and CEO of Tahiti-based tour company Nani Travels.

Eat with the locals

Darryl Leniuk / Getty Images


Each evening around 5:30 p.m., Tahiti’s roulottes (food trucks) kick into high gear, drawing hungry locals and travelers alike onto the streets with the irresistible smells of grilling meat and sizzling woks full of noodles. While you’ll find roulottes in Papeete by the cruise ship dock, many of the most popular options, such as Poke Bar II and Cafe Maeva, have moved to permanent installations at Vaipoopoo Park and Taapuna Park, a 10-minute drive from downtown. Wondering what to order? Wan recommends “the best açai in Tahiti” at Cold and Temaiti West Side for its “generous portions.” A major plus to the new location: You can fill up on chow mein, steak frites, and crepes as you watch the sunset over Tahiti’s neighbor, Moorea.




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