This Hidden Gem in Northern Italy Is Called ‘Little Rome’

Most famous as the hometown of Shakespeare’s tragic couple Romeo and Juliet, Verona isn’t typically one of the first cities in Italy that tourists visit, but it’s definitely worth a trip. Located in the northern Italian region of Veneto, Verona is about 75 minutes from Venice and Milan via high-speed train. It’s also within striking distance of Lake Garda, making it a great stop on a trip through northern Italy.

Founded by an ancient tribe, Verona became a Roman colony in 89 B.C.E., and you can still see traces of the ancient civilization (the city is even called “little Rome”). In fact, the Arena of Verona is the world’s third largest surviving Roman amphitheater, and every summer it hosts the city’s renowned opera festival. After the fall of the Roman Empire, Verona was ruled by the della Scala (Scaliger) family, under whose reign Romeo Montague and Juliet Capulet fell in love and met their tragic ends in Shakespeare’s famed play. Today, visitors come from around the world to see sights inspired by the love story.

On a recent trip to Verona, I was enchanted by the quaint cobblestone streets, the rushing Adige River, and the excellent restaurants and bars where I sampled local specialties like risotto and Lugana wine produced on the shores of Lake Garda. But for more expert tips, I tapped A-List travel advisor Fulvio De Bonis, co-founder of Imago Artis Travel, and Domenica Maruzzo, a publicist born and raised in Verona who grew up playing ball in front of the Arena and still lives in the city.

Best Hotels and Resorts

Hotel Due Torri

When it comes to the Hotel Due Torri, “grand dame” is an understatement. Opened as an inn in the 14th century, it became the city’s leading luxury hotel in the 1800s and was the hotel of choice for Maria Callas, who always stayed in a suite with a balcony where she would go to greet her fans when she performed at the Arena. A member of the Leading Hotels of the World, it’s furnished with period antiques and works of art. In the summer, its rooftop restaurant is a popular spot for grilled fish and meat.

Vista Verona

“I really like the Vista Verona, which opened a few years ago in the Centro Storico, overlooking the archeological marvels of the Corticella Leoni,” Maruzzo says. “It has a rooftop terrace where you can admire the wonders of my city from up high.”

Byblos Art Hotel Villa Amistà

Just 20 minutes from the center of Verona, this member of Small Luxury Hotels of the World is set in an elegant 16th-century villa with five acres of manicured gardens. Inside, brightly colored furnishings and more than 180 pieces of modern and contemporary art by the likes of Jean-Michel Basquiat, Ettore Sottsass, and Damien Hirst contrast with the historic architecture. Guests can relax by the outdoor pool, unwind at the spa, and enjoy tasting menus at the gourmet restaurant.

Things to Do

Visit the Casa di Giulietta.

The courtyard of Juliet’s House is one of the city’s most photographed—and crowded—spots, but it’s worth going inside in order to stand at the balcony made famous by Shakespeare. Inside the home, you can see a statue of the literary heroine, ceramics from the period when her story was set, and art and artifacts inspired by her love story, including the bed featured in Franco Zeffirelli’s 1968 film about the star-crossed lovers.

See a performance at the Arena.

“The most majestic testimony of the ancient Roman period is the Arena, an imposing amphitheater, similar to the Colosseum, dating back to the early first century C.E. and once used for gladiator fights and wild animal hunts,” De Bonis explains. “Today, the Arena hosts over 600,000 spectators every summer, making it the largest outdoor opera season in the world. The amphitheater's stunning acoustics and the set designs' grandeur make every performance an unforgettable experience.”

Climb the tower at the Museo di Castelvecchio.

Maruzzo recommends visiting the Museo di Castelvecchio; it holds personal significance as the place she wrote her college thesis. The museum occupies a 14th-century fortified castle built to protect the city and displays medieval and Renaissance art. “Its restoration at the end of the 1950s was curated by Carlo Scarpa, who created an ingenious plan for the spaces, with the choice of artworks working toward the idea of the museum as a total work of art,” she says.

Admire the views from Castel San Pietro.

“It’s a bit strenuous compared to the classic stroll along the Adige River, but climbing from the Roman Theater up to Castel San Pietro grants unforgettable views,” Maruzzo says. You can also take the funicular up to this fortified citadel for just €3 round trip.

Take in the eclectic art collection at Palazzo Maffei.

Located right on the bustling Piazza delle Erbe, Verona’s liveliest piazza built atop the ancient Roman Capitolium, this museum gives new life to a majestic 17th-century palazzo. Inside, an eclectic collection of 600 works spanning 2,000 years is displayed. Modern and contemporary art by the likes of Picasso, de Chirico, and Magritte are in dialogue with antique furniture, 17th-century majolica, Asian art, and rare books. Be sure to go up to the rooftop terrace for fantastic views of the piazza.

Best Shopping

San Zeno Antiques Market

“Every first Sunday of the month, you can stroll through the squares and find gems of modern antiques,” Maruzzo notes. The outdoor market takes over the San Zeno neighborhood with more than 200 exhibitors from all over northern Italy who come to sell vintage furnishings, art, decor, and clothing.

Gulp

On Corso Sant’Anastasia, a street known for antiques shops, this little boutique sells beautiful Murano glass vases, decorative objects, and even jewelry.

Rizoma

Maruzzo calls this shop a hidden gem, recommending in particular “the creations of Giulia Tosi,” a local artist and designer with a colorful, cartoonish aesthetic.

Best Nightlife

Amaro

“My favorite place for an aperitivo is Amaro, which is located in the piazza where I grew up,” Maruzzo says. “Drinking a well-made americano while seeing where I used to play ball is priceless. There’s also a very cool underground speakeasy!”

Romeo Bistrot & Cocktail Bar

This moody two-story bar and bistro housed in a former convent specializes in craft cocktails, including Negronis aged in terracotta amphoras. The upstairs space is especially atmospheric, with floor-to-ceiling shelves stocked with bottles that seem to glow.

Caffè Monte Baldo

Located on a quiet side street, this historic wine bar has a vast selection of cicchetti (Venetian tapas) to pair with wines by the glass or bottle. Try something local, such as the Lugana (an aromatic white wine produced on the shores of Lake Garda) or a full-bodied Amarone from nearby Valpolicella. There’s also a full menu of pastas and other dishes.

Terrazza Bar Al Ponte

“This trendy bar overlooking the Adige River and close to the Ponte Pietra is famous for its signature cocktails and stunning views. It’s the perfect place to relax and enjoy the Verona skyline at sunset,” says De Bonis.

Best Restaurants

Trattoria I Masenini

This sophisticated restaurant near Museo di Castelvecchio is certainly a more upscale experience than the typical trattoria. The ambiance is warm and welcoming, with wood-beamed ceilings, chandeliers, and checkerboard floors. The menu combines French influences and local flavors, with a strong emphasis on grilled meat and fish. The escargot in potato leek soup and the grilled lobster with tarragon bearnaise sauce are standouts.

Locanda ai Quattro Cuochi

Maruzzo considers Locanda ai Quattro Cuochi her favorite restaurant hands-down, saying, “the menu always follows the seasons, featuring traditional classics that have been lightened up and modernized. For me, the risottos there are a must!”

Antica Bottega del Vino

This historic wine bar and restaurant has won many awards and accolades for its wine list, which the waiters present to you as a massive leather-bound book. Come here for superb renditions of classic Veronese dishes, including baccalà mantecato (whipped codfish) on polenta cakes, risotto with Amarone wine, and beef cheek slowly braised in Amarone over mashed potatoes.

Trattoria Al Pompiere

“My favorite restaurant by far is Trattoria al Pompiere, which is renowned for serving traditional dishes from the Veronese region,” says De Bonis. He recommends signature dishes such as pastissada de caval (horse meat stew) and baccalà alla vicentina (salted cod). “While the trattoria provides a high-quality dining experience, it remains reasonably priced compared to some of Verona’s more upscale restaurants. Imago clients love it because it offers an authentic experience away from the more tourist-heavy areas.”

Pasticceria Flego

Run by two brothers, this pasticceria is beloved for its modern approach to traditional recipes. They make delicious cakes, pastries, and macarons in every color of the rainbow, but if you want to try a local specialty, ask for the torta russa, a Veronese cake made of puff pastry with a filling made of almonds, amaretti, and eggs. There are a handful of locations in Verona, including one on the busy Corso Porta Borsari.

Neighborhoods to Visit

Città Antica

Verona’s historic center, known as the Città Antica or the Centro Storico, is nestled within a bend in the Adige River and is designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site. This is where you’ll find the most important squares, including Piazza delle Erbe and Piazza Bra, as well as monuments like the Casa di Giulietta and the Arena. If it’s your first visit, you’ll probably spend most—if not all—of your time here, strolling the cobblestone streets and soaking up the city’s romantic atmosphere.

I Filippini

“The neighborhood where I was raised is one of the few that’s still untouched by mass tourism: i Filippini, between the Church of San Fermo and the Adige, where the historic customs building dating back to the 1700s faces the river,” says Maruzzo. “I really like to stroll through the narrow lanes and see the views I’ve known for a lifetime.”

Veronetta

Located on the eastern bank of the Adige River, this neighborhood is home to the University of Verona, so it’s got a lively energy and bohemian vibe. You can get here by crossing the ancient Ponte Pietra, which connects this neighborhood to the Città Antica. Just a couple of blocks from the bridge is the Roman Theater and the funicular that will bring you up to Castel San Pietro.

San Zeno

Just outside the Città Antica, on the western bank of the Adige, this picturesque neighborhood is characterized by green, leafy streets and parks. Anchoring it is the Basilica di San Zeno Maggiore, an excellent example of Romanesque architecture named for the city’s patron saint. This is where the antiques market takes place on the first Sunday of the month.

Best Time to Visit

According to Maruzzo, the best time to visit is probably the summer, “when the season of lyric operas at the Arena offers unmissable performances, and for an easy escape from the city, there’s the nearby Lake Garda.”

In the colder months, the Fondazione Arena di Verona hosts concerts at the Teatro Filarmonico, one of the leading opera houses in Europe. Visiting in fall, winter, or early spring will give you a chance to see the city when it’s less crowded. Every year in April, Verona hosts Vinitaly, one of the world’s largest and most important wine fairs.

How to Get There

Valerio Catullo Airport (VRN) is a small airport just 20 minutes from the city center, which has flights to and from destinations mostly in Europe. The closest major international airport is Venice Marco Polo (VCE), which is about 90 minutes away. Verona is also well connected to the rest of Italy by train.

How to Get Around

Verona’s historic center is mostly flat and much of it has been pedestrianized, so it’s easy to get around on foot or by bike.

Public Transit: Azienda Trasporti Verona (ATV) operates the city’s buses. Tickets cost €2 if you buy them on board or €1.50 if you buy them at ticket offices, newsagents, or via the Ticket Bus Verona app, and they are valid for 90 minutes.

Taxi: Radio Taxi Verona is the city’s taxi company. From Catullo Airport to select destinations in the Centro Storico, there’s a flat rate of €30 on weekdays or €35 on nights and weekends (plus possible surcharges for luggage). Normally, though, fares are calculated based on time and distance traveled. Download the itTaxi app or call +39 045 532666 to hail a taxi.