We Hiked and Spotted Orcas at This Remote Lodge in the Canadian Wilderness

The helicopter landed delicately, like a bird returning to its nest. My son, Bobby, was riding shotgun: a brave moment for a 9-year-old boy. We had set off that morning from Clayoquot Wilderness Lodge, a resort on Canada’s Vancouver Island, for a heli-hiking and glacial plunge excursion some 4,200 feet above sea level in the snow-capped and evergreen-covered mountains of the Upper Ursus Valley—stunning wilderness bordering Strathcona Provincial Park. Bobby had given me and my husband, Rob, the thumbs-up sign and a huge grin upon taking off from the glamping-style retreat. No fear.

Once the propellers wound down, I quickly scanned the scenery on Mount Ursus. Before us was a short slope blanketed with pink wildflowers, leading to a small, rocky plateau and an emerald glacial pool, the kind of swimming hole that only exists in movies like “Jurassic World.”

Our guide, Jaime Wing Ho, showed us where to step carefully as we navigated rocks, some edged by moss. We struggled to find the few dry, flat surfaces but eventually made our way to a snow-dusted slope, tromping uphill in the middle of July for a photo-op. (Snow in July? Only in Canada.) We then looped back to that pool. Raindrops began to pelt our sweaters and ponchos. Do you want to swim? prodded Jaimie, clearly a professional who had done this before.

Rob and Bobby shimmied into their swim trunks, slipped on protective footwear, and then waded into the water: first to the ankles, then gingerly to the knees. I stayed behind to document it all, notably Rob’s less-than-graceful dive into the frigid waters. With zero other hikers there, he could scream to his heart’s content, and we could all appreciate feeling so close to nature — and far away from the lodge’s creature comforts.

Indeed, one of the benefits of staying at Clayoquot, a seasonal resort on 600 acres where Bedwell Sound meets the Pacific Ocean, is access to off-the-grid locations like our heli-hiking spot. Awe-inspiring, remote settings like these, as well as the expert staff, help you tune in with the environment, your loved ones, and yourself.

I should note that the lodge has just 25 tented cabins and no public Wi-Fi. Though you can access the internet in your cabin, there will be no casual Instagram scrolling at dinner or while you sip cocktails by a firepit in a cozy sweater. Coming off a stressful flight from New York to Vancouver, still very much in work mode, we worried that we wouldn’t be able to virtually connect with colleagues, only to realize after just a few hours at Clayoquot that maybe that was the whole point.

Guests can book a week’s stay or a shortened three or four nights; we only had time for three nights but would have happily stayed longer. This set schedule keeps everyone bouncing to different activities so that the whole experience does not feel repetitive or overbooked. I loved how a convivial summer camp vibe settled over the whole place. And, just like after summer camp, you can expect to leave a changed person. One unexpected outcome? Bobby played with the resident poodles, Toby and Charlie, every morning and somehow overcame his fear of dogs.

Here’s a first-hand account of our family’s epic, adventure-focused stay at Clayoquot Wilderness Lodge, now part of the Australian Baillie Lodges group.

The Rooms

Clayoquot is a boutique property, which adds to its charm: There are only 25 white canvas tents spread out for privacy across two main areas. One group lies on the “Sunny Side” close to the resort’s arrival dock; the largest category, a two-bedroom, two-bathroom hillside family tent, is part of this cluster. The second is closer to the “Outpost,” an area that includes the Cookhouse, the activity check-in cabin, and a series of communal lounging tents, which act as a social hub. We stayed in the second cluster, where a series of wooden pathways amidst the rainforest connected the tents. Walking to our room and listening to the leaves rustle in the breeze was its own form of therapy.

The vibe leans toward quiet luxury. Our earth-toned Waterfront Ensuite Tent faced the Bedwell River and was a generous 592 square feet. It had lovely cedar plank floors, a low-lying, plush king-sized bed, a cast-iron heated stove, great on a cool summer night, a spacious seating area with a sofa that turned into a bed for Bobby, and a desk that we used to hold our books, laptops, and clutter.

If having a bathroom connected to your tent is a dealbreaker, ask for an “ensuite” tent close to the water or up in the rainforest. Otherwise, the deluxe category, also available by water or in the rainforest, has detached restroom facilities. Our accommodation also had an outdoor cedar-planked shower with excellent pressure; during the daylight hours, you can stand on your tiptoes and peep out to see more of the scenery.

In the bathroom, you’ll also find a compact, open closet for hanging clothes with shelves for extra storage (pack plenty of adventure-focused gear, including hiking boots and sweaters). Other welcome amenities? Incredibly plush towels, cozy gray robes, and, wait for it: heated floors. Morning coffee is delivered in a thermos outside your zip-up canvas door. I am a caffeine lover, so sipping a morning brew, nestled in an Adirondack chair on our deck, with my copy of “Birnam Wood” — a rare treat. The tents have no TVs or air conditioning, but again, you’re meant to be one with the elements.

Food and Drink

Three square meals a day — a healthy breakfast, hearty lunch, and multi-course dinner — are all served in the wood-beamed Cookhouse. This open-kitchen restaurant feels appropriately elevated thanks to executive chef Ben Godin’s farm-to-table cuisine. The structure, which overlooks the Clayoquot Sound, is anchored by an indoor-outdoor fireplace, where you can sit before or after your meal for casual conversation. Godin, who joined the lodge in 2024, has worked at both Noma and wd~50 and ensures that produce and proteins are sourced from Vancouver Island farms and providers, if not from the on-site chef’s garden. You won’t leave hungry.

“The philosophy for the culinary program at Clayoquot is consideration and celebration,” Godin told Travel + Leisure. “Consideration is about being mindful of sourcing ingredients as locally as possible, in season, and from farmers who utilize sustainable growing and harvesting practices. Celebration is fun, creating delicious dishes highlighting star ingredients from across British Colombia and providing that excitement factor through daily menus.”

At breakfast, there’s a well-edited, buffet-style selection of house-baked scones and breads along with hot, cooked-to-order eggs; lunch was a one-sheet menu of staples, nourishing dishes like fish and chips, kale caesar salad, and an excellent Bedwell burger. Dinner was more elaborate, with an amuse bouche and decadent bread course (we ate every slice), followed by a starter and entrées such as grass-fed Wagyu steak, potato pavé, charred shallot and port jus; wild-caught lingcod with courgettes and summer vegetables, accompanied by tartar beurre blanc; and pasture-raised pork belly with cherries, chicory, and hazelnut butter. Tired after a long day outdoors, we often took the early bird seating at 6 p.m.

Canadian wines are often challenging to get back home in New York, so we were eager to try Clayoquot’s pours, which are included with the evening meal. Favorites included a Nichol Vineyard Old Vines 2020 syrah, an Unsworth 2022 pinot noir, and the Phantom Creek Estates riesling, all from British Columbia. With Clayoquot’s all-inclusive pricing, craft beers, and local spirits are yours to sip at no extra cost. Couples and friends would gravitate to the nearby Ivanhoe Lounge, which has an alfresco top deck and a cozy indoor space with floor-to-ceiling windows, for an aperitif.

Location

Vancouver Island, an outdoor enthusiast’s paradise covering some 12,000 square miles, is a tourism mainstay. Midway up the western coast and the nearest town to Clayoquot, the charming town of Tofino sees its population swell in the summer. We reached the settlement on a boat excursion (it takes approximately 45 minutes) and enjoyed stretching our legs along the pier.

You will most likely arrive at Clayoquot by seaplane from Vancouver. The 45-minute flight can be booked through the lodge, and you will share space with other visitors unless you request a charter. For me, the seaplane ride over was a thrilling highlight, as we saw the city’s skyscrapers, roads, and homes turn into pristine wilderness and waterways. Eventually, the lodge appeared out of nowhere in a heavily forested inlet, looking like a child’s toy Lego set from the sky. On the return to Vancouver, I knew what to expect — the rush of takeoff, the smooth landing — but the scenery, especially on a bluebird day, was just as exhilarating.

In recent years, Indigenous culture has begun to play a more prominent role in tourism, particularly in Canada, and acknowledgment of traditional lands and territories is becoming standard practice globally. The Clayoquot Sound area encompasses the traditional territory of the Hesquiaht, Ahousaht, and Tla-o-qui-aht First Nations peoples.

Activities and Experiences

Your days will be full at Clayquot, whether you unwind for a few hours at the small spa, which has three treatment rooms plus a treatment “tent,” along with two barrel-shaped hot tubs overlooking the rushing Bedwell River. Or test the waters of stand-up paddle and glacial swimming at the “Oasis” a small pond near the equestrian center: there, Bobby took his first horseback riding lesson. Chess, cornhole, and billiards are strategically set up in and around a cluster of communal tents by the Cookhouse and open to everyone.

We had a gentle, two-hour workout on a guided hike, the morning mist burning off to clear sunshine. Armed with water bottles and clad in hiking books, we followed our guide, Becca Walsh, pausing every so often to get our bearings and look up at the soaring red cedar, Sitka spruce, and alder trees before breaking for hot chocolate on a dried-up portion of the river bed. (Walsh also gave us the heads up to look out and around, too–travelers may see the occasional black bear.) The hiking trails vary in difficulty, from the more mellow Upper River Trail (our choice) to the more active Ursus Trail. Mountain biking and canyoning are even more strenuous options, which we chose to skip due to Bobby’s age.

One of the water-based experiences you do not want to miss is the “Sights of the Sound” marine safari tour, which we did one gloriously sunny afternoon with just another couple who happened to be celebrating a milestone birthday. The husband, a self-professed orca lover, was eager to see one but didn’t want to get his hopes up. Isaac Shaw and Derek Kyostia, our boat captains and guides, took us out onto the sound for a three-hour spin, past bobbing sea otters’ rafts, a rare quartet of tufted puffins, and magically, as if the universe was rewarding us all, a solitary male orca. (Credit to my husband, Rob, for spotting the creature as it breached in the distance.) We had been circling an area nicknamed “Orca Alley” and ready to move on when a water spray caught his eye.

But there was Rainy, a male orca approximately 45 years old and 27 feet long, breaching on cue as if out of a nature documentary. We were all floored by his size, his ability to leap out of the water and twist like a top. As Rainy swam off into the distance, Rob and I toasted our luck with some local beer.

Accessibility and Sustainability

A new solar-and-battery-powered system unveiled in 2024 allows the lodge to operate more efficiently and sustainably, reducing its reliance on diesel fuel. (The solar panels are visible near the staff living quarters).

The resort has a wooden boardwalk to help guests reach their tents on even footing (Tents 1-12 and 17-20 are often recommended for ease of access). Both the Cookhouse and Ivanhoe Lounge are ADA-accessible. However, given the property’s outdoor focus and various activities, Clayoquot considers each request for ADA accommodation on a case-by-case basis.

How to Get the Most Value out of Your Stay

Clayoquot is an all-inclusive property. The rate includes most activities, save for the bespoke helicopter experience and spa treatments. Meals and most wines and spirits are also included. For further value, it is also part of Virtuoso and Internova’s select program.