This Luxury Train Journey in Canada Is One of the Best Ways to Experience Jasper and Banff National Park — Here’s What It’s Like

Canada’s Jasper National Park is renowned for its natural beauty. The 4,200-square-mile area has stunning geological features from glaciers, waterfalls, and lakes to limestone caves, ice fields, and canyons. And while many visit the park via car, one of the best ways to enter the stunning area is on a luxury train.

Meet Rocky Mountaineer. Founded back in 1990 by Peter Armstrong, it now operates four services: Rockies to the Red Rocks, Rainforest to Gold Rush, First Passage to the West, and Journey Through the Clouds. It's the latter that goes coast to coast between Vancouver and Calgary, making a notable stop in the province of Alberta in Jasper. And the experience is nothing short of comfortable from start to finish.

As I prepared for this journey, I wasn't sure what exactly to expect. Up until this trip, the phrase “train travel” essentially entailed public transport in New York City, bullet trains in Japan over holidays, and the occasional train in India while visiting family. I'd never embarked on a multi-day trip on a train, let alone one that qualified as luxury travel.

It didn't take long to realize this was no ordinary train ride. As I entered the train car, a spiral staircase (and an elevator) led to the seating area with a glass dome that ensured I could enjoy the stunning views from every angle. Each seat was spacious and plush. (I'd compare it to a business class plane seat but the truth is it's more luxurious than elite seats on many carriers.)

The biggest convenience was not having to deal with transporting luggage between the stops — my belongings were not my burden or concern. After dropping off my bags on the very first day, my luggage would seamlessly appear in my hotel rooms when I entered for the evening and would make its way back onto the train with little to no effort on my end.

When it comes to spending hours in a train car, the food and beverage setup can make or break a journey. I experienced the GoldLeaf Service, which offers gourmet meals in a separate dining train car set up with booths and white tablecloths. The menu changes seasonally, with vegetarian and gluten-free offerings to accommodate dietary needs. I feasted on the likes of eggs benedict and chia seed pudding for breakfast and seared tuna on a salad for lunch.

“Our goal on the train from a culinary standpoint is to really bring in the areas that we're traveling to into these domes and express the regions through the food,” Kaelhub Cudmore, Rocky Mountaineer's executive chef, told Travel + Leisure.

In the main seating area, there's a tiny bar/kitchenette area at one end and an attendant routinely walks through the aisle to offer unlimited drinks and snacks. Here, I tried my first Caesar (Canada’s take on The Bloody Mary — except lighter, more binge-able) upon the recommendation of a fellow Canadian journalist on the trip.

During our leg to Jasper, there were train delays and the team pivoted into serving us an impromptu meal. I was emotionally ready for a standard meal since this wasn’t on the itinerary but I was pleasantly surprised to receive yet another excellent dish.

I came equipped for this journey with entertainment: books, downloaded TV shows, and the mental fortitude to clear out my e-mail inbox. After all, I've been on long flights and knew all too well how painful a long journey can be. But things were different on this train — I didn't open a single book, watch a second of the downloaded shows, or declutter my inbox. The scenery was so stunning that I found myself getting lost in the surrounding beauty.

The second day of the train journey brought us to Jasper and my eyes were peeled to spot wildlife as we journeyed past bodies of water and even a waterfall. I caught my first glimpse of a mountain, which turned out to be a teaser of the Rocky Mountains. (No, that did not stop me from taking 60-plus photographs.) As we approached Jasper, I was greeted with a handful of bear sightings that got me pumped to explore the area.

As excited as I was to disembark the train, getting off the cushy locomotive for the last time felt bittersweet. I self-consoled with the prospect of more bear sightings and told myself that if the train journey was an indication of what was in store, I was in for a magical experience — and I was.

Editor's Note: Jasper National Park was among the areas affected by wildfires in Alberta, Canada, in 2024. The government of Canada is keeping travelers updated with resources and information at parks.canada.com.