From crispy, caramelized smash burgers to thick tavern-style patties, burgers are a summertime staple. But despite their ubiquity, they require a certain amount of finesse to pull off at home.
“Burgers can be a little finicky, and you definitely need the right techniques to ensure a juicy, perfectly cooked burger,” says 1996 F&W Best New Chef Michael Schlow, of Seamark Seafood & Cocktails in Everett, Massachusetts.
Every ingredient, from the meat to the bun — plus aspects like handling, seasoning, patty shape, time, and temperature — factors into a good burger. “When making an exceptional burger, it’s important to do all the little things well,” says 2012 F&W Best New Chef Danny Grant, of Chicago’s Maple Hospitality Group.
We asked several chefs to share the most common errors that stand between you and a juicy, craveable burger.
Choosing lean meat
Chefs agree that not having enough fat is the number one mistake when it comes to making burgers. “I always choose ground beef with a high fat content to highlight the depth of flavor in the beef,” says Grant. At the grocery store or butcher, pay attention to the fat percentage of your ground beef. “Make sure to [look for] an 80/20 meat-to-fat ratio,” says Schlow. “Otherwise your burgers will tend to be a bit drier.”
If you’re using a lean protein like ground turkey or chicken, try folding in grated onion to ensure juiciness.
Making your patties too small
“Forming burger patties to the size of the bun seems logical, but when the burgers are cooked they will shrink considerably,” says Garrett Benedict of Portland, Oregon’s The Love Shack. “The raw burger patty needs to be about 25% wider than the bun so that when it is done cooking it will fit properly.”
Form your patties with six to eight ounces of raw meat. Also, make sure to press a dimple into each patty before cooking to create a crater. The burger will swell as it cooks.
Overworking the meat
When you’re forming a patty, shape it so that it just holds together. “Be gentle with it,” says Sonny Ingui of Philadelphia's Urban Farmer. “If you work it too much, then you push together the myosin [a type of protein], and it gets tough or emulsified like a meatloaf.”
Seasoning too early
For the juiciest patties, season the exterior of the burger patties just before cooking on the grill or in a pan. Cookbook author J. Kenji López-Alt has discovered that mixing salt into the meat denatures proteins and creates an overly dense texture.
Victor Protasio / Food Styling by Margaret Monroe Dickey / Prop Styling by Christina Daley
Not preheating your grill or pan
Make sure to allow time for your grill or pan to get ripping hot. “If you are using a grill to cook your burgers it needs to be preheated on the highest setting for a minimum of 30 minutes,” says Benedict. “If you are using a pan then it has to be cast-iron, and you need to heat the pan until it is literally smoking before you cook the burgers. The char, and the intoxicating smoky caramelization of the burger patty done right, will elevate your burger game to pro chef status.”
Flattening your burger with a spatula
Resist the urge to bear down on thick patties during cooking. “Squishing your burgers is bad for flavor, texture, and juiciness,” says Trevor Hubbard of Sons of Liberty Alehouse in Livermore, California. “When you press down on a burger while it’s still cooking, you force out the natural fat and moisture that keep it flavorful and tender,” he says.
An exception is smash burgers. According to Nick Flowers of Denver’s Atomic Cowboy, “One of the biggest mistakes is actually not smashing the patty enough,” he says. “That hard press onto a hot skillet or griddle is what creates those crispy, lacy edges and that deep, savory sear. If you don’t commit to the smash, you miss out on the magic.”
Not letting them rest
Just like steak, burgers need time to redistribute their juices before eating. After cooking, let them rest for about five to 10 minutes. Make sure to account for carryover cooking, since the internal temperature will rise by about 5°F. “Forgetting resting time can result in an overcooked burger,” says Sophina Uong of Mister Mao in New Orleans.
Importantly, make sure you let the burgers sit off the bun. “Resting the burger on a bun can also make the bun soggy,” says Uong.
Overlooking the bun (and toppings!)
You’ve given a lot of care to cooking the perfect patty, so don’t make the bun an afterthought. “Don’t overlook the bun,” says chef Michael Saperstein of Charm City Burger Company in Deerfield, Florida. “It’s not just a holder, it’s part of the experience, so toast it, butter it, and choose wisely.” You can toast buns in a buttered skillet, or spread softened butter on the inside and place them on the grill over high heat for about 10 seconds. You can also use your broiler.
Lastly, don’t forget the condiments and fixings. From beer-braised mushrooms to Hatch chile salsa, creative toppings can take a burger from good to great.
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