The Korean American Distillers Behind the Craft Soju Boom

A rise in interest in Korean cultural touchstones, known as the “Korean Wave,” or “hallyu,” has been building in the West since the 1990s. South Korean entertainment, cuisine and beauty products have swept into American pop culture, especially over the last decade. 

Spurred by such enthusiasm, soju, a clear, Korean distilled spirit traditionally made from rice, has also seen increased interest. Today, a new generation of largely Asian-American soju producers, like Yobo Spirits, are introducing Americans to Korea’s national spirit.

What is soju?

Soju is loosely defined as a clear spirit made traditionally of rice with roots that date to the Mongol invasion of Korea during the 13th century. 

Although rice is the most common base, soju can be crafted from a variety of fruits and grains. The clear distillate also has no set alcohol percentage, which makes it an ideal playground for Asian-American entrepreneurs to explore.

“For us, soju is a rice-based spirit fermented from nuruk (a Korean fermentation starter that dates to the third century B.C.), and it’s much closer to a tequila, with a little bit of funk because of the natural yeast,” says James Kim, co-founder of Atlanta-based Minhwa Spirits. “It’s a very clean spirit.” 

The grain-to-glass distillery utilizes Arkansas rice, Georgia spring water, and traditional makgeolli (Korean rice wine) brewing techniques passed down through Kim’s paternal family on Geoje Island in South Korea. The resulting beverage is a high-octane spirit with a burnt caramel finish.

“It’s basically a makgeolli, but a high-ABV one,” he says. “The reason we use a pot still is because we’re trying to retain the flavor.” 

Carolyn Kim, founder of Yobo Spirits, takes a different approach. Initially, Yobo used 100% grapes sourced from upstate New York before it transitioned to a mixture of grain and grapes.

Kim believes that many people associate soju with cheap, “green bottle” soju, which is mass-produced and made from things like tapioca starches, she says.

“There are plenty of people already doing traditional soju amazingly well,” says James Kumm, Carolyn’s husband, who also helps manage Yobo. “We want to do a totally different experience for the consumer.”

The rise of soju in America

Last year, Korean exports of soju exceeded $114 million, surpassing the $100 million mark for the first time in over a decade. Starting in 2022, the annual revenue growth was 2.9% year over year. 

In 2024, Spirit of Gallo, one of America’s biggest spirits distributors, partnered with Korean distiller Lotte Chilsung Beverage to expand the U.S. distribution of soju brands Soonhari, Chum Churum, and Saero in America. 

“So many non-Koreans are watching K-dramas [and] drinking soju,” says Kumm. “But people outside the culture may be like, ‘What is that? I want to be drinking that, too.’” 

When Yobo released its first grape-dominant soju in 2015, it was the only American-produced craft soju brand. In 2016, Tokki Soju, founded by Brandon Hill in Brooklyn, New York, became the first American distillery to produce a traditional rice soju. Hill moved operations three years later to Chungju, South Korea. 

The American soju craft scene now includes West 32 and Minhwa Spirits, with NAMU distilling scheduled to open in Boston later this year. 

Redefining soju

Yobo recently released a K-town series of flavored soju, an homage to the “green bottles” popular in their youth.

Kim and Kumm attribute soju’s popularity to its lower ABV and because it’s gluten-free. As parents to children with food intolerances, they were particularly aware of gluten sensitivity. 

In 2022, Yobo partnered with celebrity chef Kristen Kish to create a line of chef-inspired liqueurs, called Kish Apéritif. They are working with Kish to replace wheat in the recipe with corn.

“Even if you know the spirit is not distilled from wheat, there’s that association,” says Kim.

While American soju production is limited to a handful of small producers, Kumm is optimistic about what he calls “one of the bright spots in an industry right now that’s struggling quite a bit.”

“The moment is here,” says Kumm. “Soju has arrived.” 

Best paired with memories, not hangovers

“Soju is best paired with strong flavors,” says Ming Han Chung, co-founder of Minhwa Spirits. Chung suggests to pair higher-ABV sojus, such as its 40% ABV Yong, with grilled meats and spicy food, where it can be a palate cleanser to cut through grease. 

An obvious pairing is Korean barbecue. However, if you drink soju neat, it also goes wonderfully with fried chicken, and cuisines like Thai and Mexican. Always serve soju chilled, at around 40–45°F, for maximum refreshment. 

“The great thing about soju is that it is neutral enough to go with fruit flavors in cocktails,” says Chung. At Minhwa’s tasting room in Doraville, Georgia, a bestselling cocktail is called Strawberry Fields. It uses soju in a clarified Milk Punch with housemade strawberry syrup, lemon juice, lime juice, and white peach tea, a nod to Minhwa’s Georgia roots. 

“I don’t want to call myself a purist, but I appreciate things that aren’t super sweet,” says Kim. “I like having Luxe (a higher-end soju from Yobo) with a fruit-based seltzer, citrus, and mint. It’s clean and pairs with anything.”

Both Minhwa and Yobo founders agree that their fondest memories of soju center around communal bonding.

“There’s one that I can’t really elaborate on regarding James and my origin story that involves K-town in New York,” says Kim, with a laugh.

“You never pour your own drink,” says James Kim. “It’s always shared amongst friends, the clinking and the tabletops. When I was much younger and went to Korea, we were grilling bulgogi on barrel tops and sitting around on plastic stools, [eating] grilled barbecue with soju, and the stars [were] shining, and the glasses clinking. Soju is just such an integral part of that experience.”

Craft soju bottles to try

Yong

Minhwa’s classic 40% ABV soju made with 100% rice is ideal with spicy kimchi, Mexican food, or sipped while grilling.

KTOWN Flavored Soju Yuzu + Elderflower

Light and refreshing, this 18% ABV bottling is made from organic wheat, California rice, and fruit juice. Enjoy over ice as a summer spritzer, or late night with friends.

Yobo Luxe

America’s first ultra-premium soju, this is blended from Northern California grapes, California rice, and organic wheat. At 23% ABV, it’s perfect for a low-alcohol Martini.

Dokkaebi / 도깨비

This 17% ABV soju pairs well with sashimi, green-onion pancakes, and tempura.

West 32 Reserve

Distilled and bottled in Clifton Hills, New York, America’s only barrel-aged soju spends up to 12 months in three types of American oak barrels, which brings out notes of oak, nutmeg, and vanilla. This 32% ABV soju has whisky qualities, which makes it great with steak.