I’ve Stayed at This Amalfi Coast Hotel Twice Now — Here’s Why It’s Perfect for Couples and Families
Both times I stayed at the Borgo Santandrea in Conca dei Marini, I couldn’t stop looking up at the hotel from the beach. Both times, I must have had my mouth open with wonder because a beach attendant asked me, twice, if everything was OK. That sums up the magic of Borgo Santandrea in a paragraph.
When you stand on the shore of the Italian hotel’s private beach club and look up, you can see that the hotel is almost embedded into the side of the mountain. Beneath it sits an impressive cave, almost like an open mouth, where, a valet told me, they set nativity scenes into the caves along the street during the holidays.
During the summer, it’s bordered by vibrant purple bougainvillea, which covers almost everything at the Borgo. Every stroll is replete with flowers contrasted by olive and lemon trees, the latter hanging heavy with bright yellow fruit. Little things like this make it impossible to resist the beauty of this mesmerizing luxury hotel between Positano and Amalfi.
The otherworldly setting drew me to Borgo Santandrea for the first time during my honeymoon a few years ago, shortly after the hotel opened. It was so magical then that I vowed to return someday. The second time, however, happened to be with my 11-year-old daughter. I loved my first visit, but the second trip convinced me that Borgo Santandrea is not a one-trick pony — a rarity in Amalfi, where honeymoon hotels dot the coastline.
The hotel’s owner and general manager, Maurizio Orlacchio, enlisted architect Rino Gambardella to transform the property from the 1960s into modern Mediterranean elegance — with a wink to its mid-century modern past. I’d say they succeeded. After a five-year renovation and three years in business, the hotel has grown to 52 rooms against the dazzling backdrop of the Tyrrhenian Sea and the Amalfi Coast.
Like many hotels in the area, the Borgo is almost hidden from the street, making it feel like a secret. You travel down to reach the hotel, and each level reveals multiple rooms, restaurants, bars, swimming pools, and the beach club. My daughter and I loved walking down the meandering stairs of the building. They’re so plentiful that you get a little dizzy, but it’s beautiful enough to warrant the hint of danger. (There are, however, elevators if you prefer a more direct route or have mobility concerns.) You finally emerge into a long, warmly lit hallway with a curved ceiling — perfect for selfies or capturing candids walking toward the glimmering dark blue water.
The property is full of hidden secrets waiting to delight and well worthy of its recognition on our 2022 It List. It’s a special place I love, and I can’t wait to return. Read on for my full review.
Borgo Santandrea
- Since much of the hotel faces the water, most rooms have at least partial seaside views.
- The hotel offers a complimentary boat shuttle to nearby towns so you can arrive for dinner in style.
- There’s a private beach and beach club, which is difficult to find in the area.
- Fresh lemonade and lemon-infused pastries and cakes are available all day for guests to serve themselves.
The Rooms
The hotel’s beauty will make you stop and stare often.
They’ve done a fantastic job converting the Arab-influenced building into a sleek, modern masterpiece. Gambardella enlisted local artisans to create bespoke furniture for the hotel that harkens back to its retro-modern past. He expertly mixes the new contemporary furniture with a rare vintage collection and strategically places artifacts throughout the hotel and its rooms. The details even extend to the scents, with enormous glass vials of the hotel’s signature scent permeating the halls — it’s so alluring that I bought some for my home after my first visit.
Rooms have jaw-dropping panoramic sea views and vibrant blue and white tile that continues onto the patios. Many balconies oversee the water, which is a plus, although there are rooms with better views than others, and some even have private pools. Each room has an Italian marble bath stocked with high-end Italian brands, including Dyson Airwrap multi-stylers and luxury amenities like Marvis toothpaste and Acqua di Parma toiletries. Rooms are spotless, and the minibars have complimentary snacks and drinks, including ice-cold glass bottles of Coca-Cola and local sodas.
Food and Drink
Each day begins with an included breakfast experience. Imagine wandering through a chic open kitchen, where stainless steel islands overflow with artisanal salumi, creamy cheeses, and vibrant local fruits. Nicola, the breakfast ambassador who often wears a jaunty hat, is the real gem here. His passion for describing each ingredient’s experience and provenance makes mornings a culinary journey.
Under the masterful eye of executive chef Crescenzo Scotti, Borgo Santandrea has three restaurants and two bars, each celebrating the rich flavors of Italian cuisine. At Marinella, you can savor traditional dishes on a terrace with breathtaking views of the Mediterranean — perfect for indulging while soaking up the serene ambiance.
Alici is a Michelin-starred restaurant with an open kitchen where the chef creates culinary masterpieces from fresh local ingredients. During the day, there is a casual spot near the beach where you can get pizza Margherita and other regional specialties like fried pizza and zucchini flowers. Catch the sunset at La Terrazza bar, with panoramic views that transform throughout the evening.
One of my daughter’s favorite selling points was homemade lemonade in chilled glass pitchers served all over the resort. There were also small bites of lemon-infused pastries, like lemon sponge cake and almond cake, finished with delicate glossy latticework.
The food at the restaurant is excellent, but an insider tip: I also recommend El Zefferino, a family-run restaurant on the other side of the beach that is not affiliated with the hotel. You’ve never had better spaghetti with clam sauce, and they serve jugs of wine filled with fresh summer peaches when in season.
Activities and Amenities
Just because you come here to sit for a while doesn’t mean you must stay still. The hotel’s beach offers plenty of free activities like kayaking and snorkeling, and there’s a large primo rock that adults and children like to jump off of. However, you can sunbathe on the shiny black volcanic rocks that hurt your feet but strangely feel good to lie on when warmed by the sun. One of the cutest things about the beach is the throwback cabanas adorned with the typical striped pattern. Chairs at the beach are comfortable (by Italian beach club standards), and the fixed plastic umbrellas provide a respite from the sun’s heat — and also have handy hooks for your cover-up or hat.
The hotel has a private pier where you can ride to town to explore or get picked up by a private boat for a day-long coast tour. The Borgo also has its own fleet and can organize a trip for an added cost. On-site, there’s a saltwater pool above the beach and a gym with sufficient equipment. Everything has a view of the water, so even the smaller spa, with just a few cabins, feels deliciously luxurious in the serenity of its setting.
There are also shuttles via car to Amalfi should you want to shop or dine in the small town. The hotel’s connected concierge can help you organize it all, but make reservations for everything because the area books up in advance.
Family-friendly Offerings
The hotel allows children aged 8 and up to stay on the property. There are several interconnecting rooms or suites, and many of the activities can be tailored to the family, such as one of the boat excursions touring the coast’s many towns and sights like the Blue Lagoon and the Faraglioni rock formation. My daughter said our boat day was the best, but she also especially enjoyed the free watersports, like kayaks — a great way to take in the hotel’s magnificence from the water.
Many of the activities are family-friendly. The hotel can help you set up day tours to educational locales like Pompeii and nearby activities for kids, like lemon grove tours and cooking classes. My daughter was happy to sit on the shore and shop in Amalfi, where the prices are relatively lower than in towns such as Capri and Positano. (Hint: Buy the custom sandals all over the area there.) As I mentioned, the area can be busy, especially when trying to take it all in, so this is a rare place to stop and recharge.
Accessibility and Sustainability
The hotel is fully accessible and ADA-compliant. It has also made many sustainability efforts throughout its renovation. Much of the food comes from local purveyors, and there’s a genuine commitment to leaving a smaller footprint.
Location
Getting to the region can be tricky, and this is a perfect first stop, even though it’s a bit longer than a drive from Naples than Positano or Sorrento. Have an espresso at the airport and have the hotel organize its car service to take you to the hotel. It will be lunchtime if you’re coming from the East Coast, which means you can indulge in the seaside restaurant.
There is little you can walk to from the hotel since it is on a windy street along the coast 10 minutes outside Amafl in the historic seaside village, but the hotel provides a complimentary shuttle into town in a Mercedes van or via a boat during certain hours. This is the kind of hotel you check into and relax, punctuated by the occasional day trip — although plenty of opportunities are nearby that the concierge can organize for you. A rental car is not recommended since there is little parking, and it is generally not recommended in Amalfi due to congestion and the lack of parking. You can also reach it by private boat, depending on where you originate.
How to Get the Most Value Out of Your Stay
The Amalfi Coast is a seasonal destination, so much of the area is closed to tourism during winter months. Hotels use the opportunity to make improvements, and Borgo is no different. There are few opportunities for discounts since this is a luxurious hotel, but Orlacchio recommends booking in advance to get the best rooms to fit your budget.
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