How to Make Caramelized Cream, the Secret to Extra Rich Pancakes and More

Like many great creations, caramelized cream was invented by accident. Chef Craig Wilmer of Farmhouse Inn in Sonoma County was making clotted cream in an old oven when the inconsistent heat caused the heavy cream around the edges of the pan to burn. Knowing that heavy cream has about six times more milk solids than butter — and that toasted milk solids are what gives brown butter its nutty, rich flavor — Wilmer and his team were optimistic about the results.

“We tried it, and it was insanely intense,” he says. Since then, caramelized cream (aka SBB, “super brown butter,” as they like to call it at the restaurant) has become a key ingredient that appears in several of Farmhouse Inn’s dishes and desserts, including the pancakes.

How to make caramelized cream

Bring two cups of heavy cream to a boil in a large skillet over medium-high, stirring occasionally. Reduce the heat to medium, and simmer, stirring and scraping the bottom and sides of the skillet often, until the cream has separated into fat and milk solids and the milk solids are golden brown, 18 to 22 minutes. Adjust the heat as needed to maintain a steady simmer but prevent scorching. (See the progression of the cream separating and browning in the step by step images here.)

While the cream is simmering, fill a large bowl with ice water, and place a medium-size heatproof bowl inside. Remove the caramelized cream from the heat, and continue stirring constantly and allowing residual heat to toast the milk solids until dark golden brown, about one minute.

Pour the caramelized cream into the bowl resting in ice water; stir constantly until the cream is thickened and cool but not hardened, one to two minutes. Remove the bowl with caramelized cream from the ice water. Use the caramelized cream as desired.

Wilmer recommends toasting heavy cream on the stovetop, rather than in the oven, for better control over the process. To reduce the risk of scorching, turn off the stove once the cream darkens to golden brown and allow the residual heat to continue browning it. “You’ll smell an overwhelming brown butter and hazelnut aroma. I’m looking for a hint of bitterness to appear and, colorwise, for a dark-brown roux color. It should be quite dark,” he says.

How to use caramelized cream

“Pancakes [are] a natural choice,” Wilmer says. “The medium of a pancake itself, because it’s flour and milk, is a neutral canvas that allows the concentrated flavors of the caramelized cream to open up.” Combined with raw sugar and a smidge of cinnamon, the nuances of the warm and nutty cream shine. It adds a depth and complexity similar to brown butter, but with amplified intensity. 

Pancake batter is only the beginning of caramelized cream’s potential. Try melting caramelized cream in the microwave and tossing it with toasted nuts, popcorn, or roasted vegetables like broccoli, carrots, or cauliflower to add warmth and complexity. Let caramelized cream soften at room temperature and spread it over your morning toast or biscuits with a sprinkle of flaky sea salt and a drizzle of honey. Or use it to add an intense toastiness to starchy side dishes by stirring a spoonful into warm mashed potatoes, steamed rice, or grains like cooked farro just before serving.

How to store caramelized cream

Store the caramelized cream in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to two weeks. The toasty flavor will intensify over time.