How To Lay Your Edges, According To A Celeb Hair Stylist

Growing up, I didn't explore different hair styling techniques since I spent the majority of my childhood years sporting my tight coils in a ballet bun (thank you, classical ballet training). After spending years dedicating little-to-no attention to my hair when I wasn't spending my time perfecting pirouettes, my post-dance life came with more than enough opportunities to start diving into the hair trends I always wanted to try my hand at. Now, I'm finally feeling confident enough to experiment with natural hair—starting with mastering my edges.

Now that I've added an edge brush, gel, and extra-hold hairspray to my beauty routine, I thought it was the perfect time to reach out to an expert for the do's and don'ts of styling your edges. Below, I'm sharing everything I learned, plus a few products that could make a difference in your baby hair styling journey. Get ready to take notes!

What Are Adges?

Edges are the soft, fine hairs around the hairline (also popularly referred to as ‘baby hairs.' “In Black culture, edges are a statement. They can take a look from just okay to all the way together,” begins pro hairstylist and makeup artist T. Cooper. “Because of the unique texture of Black hair, laid edges often signal care and intention.” Edges have a deep history, one that has continued to inform the biggest hair trends of today while also reflecting the resilience of Black women.

So, what makes the topic of edges complex? It's all who wears them with pride and their continued relevance. “Historically, when Black women show up polished, it's been both a form of pride and resistance from widespread stereotypes. Over time, it has become a fun way to be creative with hairstyling,” she explains. According to Cooper, edges can be worn in a sleek and simple way, or be transformed into pieces of art that reflect the personality of the wearer. “It's personal expression, but it's also part of cultural legacy,” says Cooper.

Doing Your Edges For The First Time

If you're attempting to do your edges for the first time, know that there can be a learning curve. Cooper recommends starting simple and avoiding the temptation to overthink it. “A clean swoop goes a long way. As you get more confident, play around with more intricate styles,” she says. It's also best not go overboard with the styling product. “It's easy to get heavy-handed, but more isn't always better,” Cooper adds. Test the product out to see how your hair reacts to the formulation, then build gradually and determine how much your hair needs. This is how you get your edges to stay in place without flaking or getting crunchy.

To ensure your edges last all day, focus on layering and setting. “Start with edge control, layer gel on top if you need more hold, then tie it down with a scarf. Sitting under a dryer or using a blow dryer helps to lock it in,” Cooper says. Additionally, for all day wear (especially in heat and humidity), finish off your edges with a few spritzes of hairspray to keep your edges laid all day.

Looking for ideas to try on your baby hairs? Cooper has created stunning looks for her celebrity clientele. “I love a good swirl, it’s classic and always cute. But zigzags, wavy patterns, and hearts are also chef’s kiss. For fun, I’ve mixed glitter into gel,” she enthuses. If you love using hair accessories, consider adding rhinestones or pearls around your edges for the perfect special occasion look. “You can even add rhinestones or pearls around them for a special occasion,” Cooper continues. “Don’t be afraid to have fun with it , your edges are another form of self-expression.”

1. Separate Your Edges And Apply Styling Product

The first step to laying your edges is to separate your baby hairs around the face before slicking them down with a long-lasting and non-flaking edge control product, using an edge brush to slick them down in the direction you'd like them to be styled. Hair type is key when it comes to landing on a product that can help mold your baby hairs. “For relaxed hair, oil and water can be enough (that’s my personal lazy-girl technique). A wax stick also works well if you want hold without heavy product,” says Cooper.

For curly and coil textures, however, she prefers to use edge control. Right now, her top pick is the Instant Control Edge & Braid Gel ($19) since it locks the baby hairs in place. For clients with natural textures a thick strands, she applies a layer of edge control first, followed by a thick gel. Then, she ties it down with a scarf and sprays it with Level 3 Freeze Spray ($12) to extend the wear time of the finished style.

Edge control, which is commonly accepted as the most universal styling product for laying edges, has a thick and tacky consistency designed to lay down tight curls and coils, while looser curl types might benefit the most from combining a pomade with a gelée, oil and water, or using a wax stick. Cooper's top edge control picks are Got2B's Ultra Glued Gel ($8), and Kera Care Wax Stick ($10).

2. Style With Your Preferred Brush Of Choice

Next, it's time to break out your styling tool. Yes, simply using a toothbrush to for laid edges is an easy and affordable option (I even have memories of attempting edges with a travel toothbrush), consider using a brush crafted for the job. While all the brushes below may look different, they all have the same thing in common: they're crafted using natural boar bristles that will smooth and style your hair while keeping strands healthy.

You'll also find many edge brushes to have a double-sided design. “Double-sided brushes give you range. The brush side smooths everything out, and the pointed end lets you really shape your baby hairs—whether you’re doing a sleek swoop or manipulating your baby hair into swirls,” explains Cooper. She advisees treated edges like a mini canvas, using the brush as an edge art tool, and having fun with the process. The brush will help swoop and style your edges, working hand-in-hand with the edge control to mold them into shape.

Cooper's top choice for a brush is Cricket's Amped Up Edges Brush ($5). Designed with coils and curls in mind, one side is a brush while the other features a pointed tip for defined designs. It's also helpful for separated your edges from your hair before slicking them down. The boar bristles also move effortlessly through gel and water and are gentle on sensitive scalps. To refine your baby hairs further, go in with a tail comb.

3. Refine With A Tail Comb

Whether you're going for a bold and fashion-forward look or hoping to pull of a natural-looking finish for your baby hairs, pick up a tail comb for all the small details that bring big impact. Take the pointed tail of a comb and follow the shape of your baby hair design to further mold the shape into place your created with a boar bristle edge brush or any other preferred styling tool. If longevity is what you're after, you may want to finish off each swoop with some gel on the very tip.

4. Set Your Edges

Now that you've gone through the trouble of shaping your baby hairs to perfection, make them last for hours on end by setting them. Use a scarf to carefully wrap your edges, making sure the scarf lays flat against the hair. This will help avoid the hair shifting out of place. The goal is for your styling product to dry, allowing your edges to harden. For extra insurance, Cooper recommends going over your edges with a freeze spray (often at a higher hold level than hairspray, for the best result after removing the scarf. You want to reinforce the hold!

5. Adding Oil And Serum

If you're noticing some white residue left over on your edges after styling and setting, don't panic. Cooper tells us that can be fixed by adding a few drops of oil or serum, restoring shine to your strands and leaving them residue-free.